ivan Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 tell me the story, wayne, puh-leeze! i figured the rurp failing me on the first and only decetn placement i coudl see was sign enough - i had plenty of hooks but didn't see where to use a one no worries about fixed iron joe - there's but one fixed pin, an a angle and solid, and i don't know if it's even technically on the first pitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Ivan, the comments above weren't so much about the routes you guys did so much as a general comment about the likely state of Broughton fixed pro given what was found at Beacon. Those folks who really care about the place might want to consider a random survey sometime and check a few pins and bolts and see what you find. Looks like you've been getting in all sorts of good training for the Valley - keep it up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Ivan, the comments above weren't so much about the routes you guys did so much as a general comment about the likely state of Broughton fixed pro given what was found at Beacon. Those folks who really care about the place might want to consider a random survey sometime and check a few pins and bolts and see what you find. Looks like you've been getting in all sorts of good training for the Valley - keep it up! i know a few caring people at beacon who didn't necessarily care for some of the random stuff you have done... no offense, just sayin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 broughtons seems to have far fewer fixed pins than beacon, i can only think of a couple that i've seen out there, and they've all been burly - that said, the force the superstition pin pulled under, upon examining it this weekend, does appear to be the kind typical in a big fall, so joe's point to not trust'em is valid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 broughtons seems to have far fewer fixed pins than beacon, i can only think of a couple that i've seen out there, and they've all been burly - that said, the force the superstition pin pulled under, upon examining it this weekend, does appear to be the kind typical in a big fall, so joe's point to not trust'em is valid that's an awfully nice dress you have there mrs. clever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 anyway, i never said his point was invalid... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 i know a few caring people at beacon who didn't necessarily care for some of the random stuff you have done... no offense, just sayin Cool, i know a few people who claim to care, but not enough to actually step up or do what might be required to actually have a shot a lifting the closure. In general, a decade of clueless fuckups and infantile posturing and attitudes relative to managing the place has left me not really caring much what those folks think... so no offense taken. P.S. oh, and nothing I've done out there has ever been random... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 broughtons seems to have far fewer fixed pins than beacon, i can only think of a couple that i've seen out there, and they've all been burly - that said, the force the superstition pin pulled under, upon examining it this weekend, does appear to be the kind typical in a big fall, so joe's point to not trust'em is valid that's an awfully nice dress you have there mrs. clever dude, i so would have taken mrs cleaver if i'd had the chance! and mary poppins too, i've...er...come...to discover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 (edited) i know a few caring people at beacon who didn't necessarily care for some of the random stuff you have done... no offense, just sayin Cool, i know a few people who claim to care, but not enough to actually step up or do what might be required to actually have a shot a lifting the closure. In general, a decade of clueless fuckups and infantile posturing and attitudes relative to managing the place has left me not really caring much what those folks think... so no offense taken. P.S. oh, and nothing I've done out there has ever been random... Edited May 11, 2009 by pink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemp22 Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Nice effort Ivan - and thanks for replacing that Pin (assuming it doesn't look like that one in Joseph's picture on the previous page). I'd meant to go take a look this weekend, but ended up climbing elsewhere. I agree w/ Ivan that there are relatively few fixed pins at broughton - bolts are just more prevalent there. But there are certainly a few rarely-travelled pitches that have pins on them that could stand to be checked out or replaced by someone with the know-how. There are really only a few routes that I can think of w/ fixed pins. There are also a few home-made bolt hangers that are equally sketchy. ...Still waiting for that Jungle Cliff TR Ivan - you might find some interesting mank out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 i know a few caring people at beacon who didn't necessarily care for some of the random stuff you have done... no offense, just sayin Cool, i know a few people who claim to care, but not enough to actually step up or do what might be required to actually have a shot a lifting the closure. In general, a decade of clueless fuckups and infantile posturing and attitudes relative to managing the place has left me not really caring much what those folks think... so no offense taken. P.S. oh, and nothing I've done out there has ever been random... what's the earliest the closure has been lifted, since you been "back around"beacon? just curious..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 i might have to get a real hammer first driving pins (and then trying to clean them) w/ a ball pien hammer, a too short leash, and a thrashed mammut sling for a funkness, on top of soloing w/ all the anchor worries, really brings out The Fear in me! looking forward to getting down to the jungle, but first i wanna climb the upper pitches on the left side of the bat wall - no shit, that pitch that currently is chocked w/ the mega-blackberry looks like it'll be awesome once the horrorshow is chopped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 i know a few caring people at beacon who didn't necessarily care for some of the random stuff you have done... no offense, just sayin Cool, i know a few people who claim to care, but not enough to actually step up or do what might be required to actually have a shot a lifting the closure. In general, a decade of clueless fuckups and infantile posturing and attitudes relative to managing the place has left me not really caring much what those folks think... so no offense taken. P.S. oh, and nothing I've done out there has ever been random... what's the earliest the closure has been lifted, since you been "back around"beacon? just curious..... you boyz are only allowed to bitch about beacon if, in doing so, you get my tr above 1500 views and thus earn me a cool flamey icon, dig, goddamitt?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 whose bitchin? i thought jopseph was bitchin about the broughtons locals.... and ivan, i'll be happy to paint some rad flames on ur truck or perhaps ur helmut.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Not at all, just commenting a lot of the routes at both places went up around the same time, by many of the same people, and if the bolts and some fixed pins are in as bad a shape there as they were at Beacon then folks might want to think about pulling some maintenance on the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 how about carrying a hammer and a funkness when going into uncharted territory, not a good idea to rely on kind souls like yourself, not a good idea at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 That's my point, all the routes out there put up pre-2001 are likely 'uncharted territory' by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 ok joseph, spray is a little slow..can u step it up alitle bit and score ivan some flames goddammitt..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 so what's the earliest closure EVER!!!!! during a raptor closur... i GOT'S to know!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Broughtons doesn't close... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 not even a dirty bird would be caught dead there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 this is still open... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted May 11, 2009 Share Posted May 11, 2009 Took me a minute, that's a lovely little dance, but the weather is better in boulder right now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted May 12, 2009 Share Posted May 12, 2009 (edited) tell me the story, wayne, puh-leeze! Not to get back on topic or anything, but that bad rurp held and that is what I started the notorious pitch #3 bat hook ladder from. It was an Olson-made custom rurp and it was the perfect one time placement. You may have to replace it with a new hole and make it 8 in a row. The 9th piece is a really bad blade and you may have to hole it too which would make 13 continuous bat hook placements. You have my permission to put a life-saver bolt half-way up the pitch. I left the route in bad shape, thinking that no person would dare it in the future. This was the era where I disliked gym climbing the most. Sportos seemed so snooty. We did the route in 3 stages. Gymsters found they could not free climb "Go back to the Gym' (pitch #1) I dont remember why I named it that. We were bummed when the 2nd pitch blanked out . We named it "Stay in the gym" for some reason. After acquiring a second bat hook We finished the trilogy off with Pitch#3 "Die in the Gym". It scared the crap out of me. Over time I lost my cynicism towards indoor climbing, though every now and then.... Oh yea I took a 20 foot fall on the hook pitch too . It was on hook # 2 or 3? The hook below me stopped me from taking a 50+ footer!!!!!!!!!! Hows that for a story? Edited May 12, 2009 by wayne1112 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted May 12, 2009 Author Share Posted May 12, 2009 tell me the story, wayne, puh-leeze! Not to get back on topic or anything, but that bad rurp held and that is what I started the notorious pitch #3 bat hook ladder from. It was an Olson-made custom rurp and it was the perfect one time placement. You may have to replace it with a new hole and make it 8 in a row. The 9th piece is a really bad blade and you may have to hole it too which would make 13 continuous bat hook placements. You have my permission to put a life-saver bolt half-way up the pitch. I left the route in bad shape, thinking that no person would dare it in the future. This was the era where I disliked gym climbing the most. Sportos seemed so snooty. We did the route in 3 stages. Gymsters found they could not free climb "Go back to the Gym' (pitch #1) I dont remember why I named it that. We were bummed when the 2nd pitch blanked out . We named it "Stay in the gym" for some reason. After acquiring a second bat hook We finished the trilogy off with Pitch#3 "Die in the Gym". It scared the crap out of me. Over time I lost my cynicism towards indoor climbing, though every now and then.... Oh yea I took a 20 foot fall on the hook pitch too . It was on hook # 2 or 3? The hook below me stopped me from taking a 50+ footer!!!!!!!!!! Hows that for a story? excellent - just what i was looking for - i really didn't relish the idea of falling all that way and bouncing off the goddamn scoop - and this would explain the bizarre hole i saw too, somewhere in the scoop i think, that was right over the top of the thin crack? i was confused when i saw it, but had forgotten about it before writing the tr - the crack takes a blade or a beak i recall, but sure as hell, a nice bat hooked size hole right there! i didn't see any above the hanging belay anchor though, despite scrubbing as high up as i could reach - pity, for that i woulda definitely taken a stab at - reckon i have a reason to return now to get back on the subject of bird-bitching though, i enjoyed smoking a calm cigarette while seann cleaned the traverse - at the top of a very tall tree, at my height, just 50 feet away a nesting pair of red tail hawks kept squawking, flapping and coming back and forth to their chick, totally oblivious to our existence - why can't peregrines be a chill as these fuckers, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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