Scarpa Question

[CollinWoods]

Does Scarpa make a boot similar to La Sportiva's Evo GTX boot?

[rocky_joe]

The Freney is pretty similar...The EVO fits my foot better, but the Scarpa boot is about 20-25 bucks cheaper. I guess fit is the main issue.

[Jake_Gano]

The Freneys are a great boot. I've never been able to get a good fit in Sportivas, but Scarpas seem made-to-fit for me. Also I have an allergy to a chemical used to dye leather, so the Freney was a natural choice.

 

I doubt they are as stiff as EVOs (I assume you are talking about the Nepal EVO?), because the all synthetic material flexes more than natural leather. That means they hike more naturally than most similar boots on the market (I use mine for summer mountaineering).

How stiff of a boot you use for ice climbing is a personal preference - Gadd goes into this in some detail in his book, I believe - but I've used the Freneys plenty of times ice climbing. I use my plastics (Omegas) over the Freneys at times, but the extra stiffness plastics offer is a compensation for my sloppy footwork, and not a reflection on any shortcoming of the Freneys.

 

I've also spent 10 hour days out where it never got above -15F in the Freneys and a single warm sock with no complaints. Just throw a set of chemical packs in, and you're good to go. Even without the chemical packets, I've spent long days at -10F in these boots without complaints. Maybe I have warm feet, but most people who are quick to point fingers at their boots when they get cold feet are just vicitims of their own lack of vigilance - not keeping socks dry, letting snow get in the boot, etc.

[davidk]

Which Sportiva boot are you talking about?

 

If you're referring to the Trango S Evo GTX, the comparable Scarpa boot is the Charmoz GTX.

 

If you're referring to the Nepal Evo, then the comparable Scarpa is the Freney XT.

 

I have been very pleased with my pair of Charmoz boots for a couple years of hard use for rough off trail hiking and alpine climbing. I got a pair of their Phantom Lites this winter, and am very impressed so far (only used them for ice cragging, no alpine routes yet). They share a very similar (if not identical) sole system, but are probably a bit warmer and have the integrated gaitor.

[CollinWoods]

Sorry i was mostly looking at the Trangos. I have proform on the Sportivas but will be able to get the Scarpas soon. Thanks everyone.