North Ridge of Mt Stuart Beta

[TMO]

I realize that I will probably be flambee`d... but here goes anyways... (before you suggest it; I have been through all the TR's already and have more, specific questions)

 

My partner and I are contemplating a trip to the North Ridge this summer. I will just be doing the 1/2 ridge (or 1/5 depending on who you talk to) and the rap into the crappy gully (sorry folks, honestly, I just can't lead 5.8 unless I'm clippin' bolts (willing to aid though))and would like some input/help on the following questions.... Thank you in advance for being helpful!

 

1. Boots/rock shoes or approach shoes? I have some LaSportiva Trango boots that climb great. I'm thinking of wearing them the whole route, but considering approach shoes as well. I WILL be taking crampons.

 

2. Best Rope? I have a 7.8 60 meter 1/2 rope and am thinking about doubling it and simul climbing as much as possible.

 

3.Best place to bivouac? After my poor performance on the West Ridge I have no delusions of making this a 1 day affair. I would like to biv at the notch/top of the gully but lack of water seems an issue, I'm also thinking about goat pass. I will not be taking full bivy gear, just a warm jacket... or possiby throw a mountain goat in a headlock for the evening (bleet for me big boy).

 

4. Rack? 10 nuts, 6 cams and 3 hexcentrics do the trick?

 

5. I've saved the best for last... What is a reasonable amount of time for your average joe to climb the ridge? Everyones abilities are different, I'm talking AVERAGE here... Becky says 6 hours from the glacier... using the Standard Becky Multiplier (SBM) I come up with 12 hours.

 

What do you think?

 

 

[eric8]

1. approach shoes the glacier is flat

 

2. have you and your partner done much simul climbing? If you can't lead 5.8 are you going to be comfortable simuling 5.6? IF so then your rope seems fine

 

3. The notch, you can always fill up at the glacier right before gaining the notch.

 

4. that rack would be fine for some and not so fine for others

 

5. no idea depends on how much you simul

[catbirdseat]

Do the Great Gendarme, even if you have to aid it. It's not that hard and it is easy to protect.

[TMO]

Thank you Eric8! Great point on #2, we have NOT done much simul climbing but plan on puttin' some miles in between now and then.

[Off_White]

I've done the rap version and it's not all that charming. Oh, the rappel is fine, and the pitch out of the gully offers some entertainment, but the upper park is loose and gravelly, only go that way if it's getting dark and you aren't going to summit.

 

There's a swell two person bivy just after the hand traverse, about a pitch before the Gendarme. It's a good alternative to a notch bivy on the first day if you've got some day left.

 

Approach shoes might be fine late season, but boots would be better early. When I took my son up there for his first alpine climb, it was the traverse out of Goat Pass and the snow descent from the false summit shoulder that worried me on the climb. We had poor runouts and his cheesy goodwill boots were sloppy as hell, and there just wasn't much help I could provide aside from kicking steps.

 

If you really only lead 5.8 you might be happier bringing rock shoes rather than just climbing in your Trango's, you'll move faster and feel more secure on the ridge proper.

 

It's a fine outing, you'll have a great time.

[Bug]

The gendarme is spectacular.

But,....I suspect you are going to epic.

Nothing wrong with that. Epic is my middle name.

With an epic in mind, water becomes the problem.

If you find no snow on the ridge below the gendarme, you will probably want to rap into the gulley to get snow or ice to melt.

Take a pocket rocket and a small pot.

 

[TMO]

Thanks for the encouragement Bug, you've been very helpful I will bring the pocket rocket and billy pot though...

[Bug]

Hey, my favorite climbs are the ones with bivies (epics).

 

I like having a small pad and bag along too tho.

[catbirdseat]

When we did the climb, I brought a down jacket and a bivy sack. We had fine weather and I sure wish I had just left behind the bivy and jacket and brought a lightweight sleeping bag. My legs were cold at night.

 

If, when you go, you are pretty sure of good weather, go with a sleeping bag and no bivy.

 

The other thing I might have done differently is that we bivvied the first night at Goat Pass. The snow on the glacier was very hard the next morning. That traverse to the notch would have been easy in the afternoon. Plus we would have had a much earlier start.

[TMO]

Thanks guys, i appreciate all the feedback! With your input I have come to the following conclusions;

 

1- I WILL epic, so I need to bring a lightweight sleeping bag, pocket rocket and a billy pot.

 

2- I will wear light weight boots on the approach and bring rock shoes for the rock climbing.

 

3- I'll bring an ice axe and aluminum crampons.

 

4- I will aid the gendarme

 

5- I think I will buy a light weight 60 M single rope (mammut serenity?) double it and simul-climb if possible or just pitch it out if necissary.

 

Thanks again!

[eldiente]

My 2cents says do it in a day and leave all the crap back at camp. How does an average climber do the route in a day? Here is the "easy" way to do it, takes a bit more time but makes for a nice outing if your like me an hate climbing with a heavy pack and don't like walking around in the dark.

 

1.) Go early season when there the Sherpa Glacier is still in.

 

Day 1. Hike in via Mountaineers Creek Hike is about 6 miles with some mild bushwhacking,enjoy the walk, sniff flowers, take a few pictures. Set-up camp at the base of the N. Ridge, scope out the descent cook a good dinner.

 

Day 2. Get up early, climb the lower Ridge. (sometimes called complete N.Ridge) OR trudge up the Stuart Glacier and go up the notch to join the Upper N. Ridge. Summit with daylight left and start moving down the Sherpa Glacier back to base camp. Hike out to car if you still have energy. Or do a third day.

 

Day 3.) Sleep-in at base camp, pack-up, hike out to car.

 

Yes, this makes this a full 3 day outing for one route. On the plus side you'll be climbing light and doing it with a good night's rest. Double Plus, you'll be camping in a beautiful spot. (no permit required)

 

Base Camp Gear. Tent, beer, all the comforts of home. Bugs are bad there, they could kill you without a tent.

 

Route Gear. Approach shoes, (boots are too heavy) light crampons for Sherpa descent and axe. Small stove and pot to melt water at the notch. No bivy gear, bring a jacket and plan on topping out before it gets dark. You'll be less tired because your not hauling heavy bivy gear.

 

Rack. Small rope, 60M x9mm would be fine but 30M of 8mm would be great for cutting weight. Depending on much simuling you do, I'd bring double set of cams up to a #2, single #3 and #4 and a couple of nuts. For this style of climbing I like to bring a lot of extra cams so I can do long blocks without re-racking, cams weight more but are worth the weight as they are so fast to clean. Comfy rock shoes.

 

 

 

[Bug]

Either of the last two posts sound good.

The latter only if you are truely able to cruise the ridge below the gendarme AND don't spend too much time on the gendarme and the pitch above it.

I'm remembering that you said you are a 5.8 leader. This suggests that the gendarme pitch might be a mind blower. MAJOR exposure in a remote setting.

Just a thought.

Anyway, you have plenty of beta and will love the route.

[johndavidjr]

I don't remember the "crappy gully" as all that crappy. Not compared with actually "crappy" gullies...

 

Nor do I remember much (any? little?) 5.6.

 

The place where I wanted to bivvy, but didn't, was somewhere (anywhere!!!!) after topping out. The slog down, around Goat Pass and back to camp was, for me, a weakling, extremely unpleasant.