Alpine Aid

[robpatterson5]

Hi, just wondering what you guys bring for long routes in the mountains where you think some or some moderate amounts of aid might be nessecery?

 

If I'm going light I might make an aider out of slings or just bring one. For heavier trips I usualy bring two Metolious pocket aiders on ovalwires, a long dynema daisy (for the other I use slings), and a fi-fi or carabines. Two Cliffhangers, two #2 Peckers and two Al heads. I have a Simond Fox hammer that I use as a tool/hammer. For the secound Tiblocs, prussics, or ropemen usualy.

 

Am I missing anything? Can I make it more efficent/lighter?

 

What are your thoughts? What do you use?

[G-spotter]

Climb harder.

[rocky_joe]

G-Spotter...that is the best beta ever. I use it all the time, and like magic it usually works.

 

Rob... I second that with a resounding, "Climb Harder."

 

About your aider situation though, I had a friend who used webbing to make his and sewed sections of inner tube to make the steps sturdy. Although I am not sure if it is lighter than a manufactured aider. Worth a try though.

You could also try a Purcell Prusik as an aider. Very useful and it only takes two 10' lengths of cord.

[Dane]

I'm all over fast, light and climb harder. But just found that for myself aid is none of the above. If I think I'm going to have to really aid something I bring aiders for both members and at least one pair (or 2) of full size ascenders. Things do go faster with the right gear.

 

If it is something we think will be "french free" then just a bit more pro will generally do it. If it is alpine climbing and mixed then tools might eliminate some of what would have been aid just a few years ago.