Dharma Bum Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 The clear, calm streak of weather we're having here in Oregon got me thinking that I'd like to take a climb up Mt. Hood. I'm a relative newcomer to Portland and haven't ever had a chance to get up the mountain. I've been itching to do so for months, but have been mostly advised that climbing Hood in the off-season/winter is unnecessarily risky and generally unwise. So, I thought perhaps this bit of clear weather could be enough to change that advice, but as a rookie in the area and a newcomer to the mountain, I wanted to get some feedback. I was hoping you could offer your thoughts on winter climbs of Mt. Hood, if weather was the primary danger, what else I might want to factor in as far as dangers, etc. I'm a moderately experienced rock climber of several years and have been on a handful of mountaineering trips and have basic mountaineering knowledge and experience in self-arrest, and in ice-ax and crampon technique. Still, as I mentioned, I know little of the climbing on Hood and didn't want to get way over my head by attempting a winter climb. I'm a new member of the board, so I appreciate you all taking the time to read my post. Any and all comments/insight would be greatly appreciated. Hood has been tempting me for a while now. Thanks again, take care. Quote
ivan Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 during a fat winter high pressure system like we have here for the next few days, the conditions are pretty ideal - drive on up to timberline and follow the herd! an altimeter/compass are advisable for getting back down if it clouds up - plenty of warm clothes advisable too - you don't particularily need a partner for the standard southside route Quote
Dharma Bum Posted January 17, 2009 Author Posted January 17, 2009 Thanks for the recommendation. Any other recommendations for routes of a similar range, but perhaps less crowded? I'm thinking of heading up Monday or Tuesday. Quote
OldManRock Posted January 17, 2009 Posted January 17, 2009 If its your first time on Mt Hood, climb the regular route - If trouble comes, there will be people there who know the way down. Also in times to come when you are doing harder routes, and end up on top in a white out, YOU will know the way down... Quote
mike1 Posted January 18, 2009 Posted January 18, 2009 I agreee. First time on Hood just go South Route. Next time look into Crater Rim or Leuthold's Couloir. Quote
Dharma Bum Posted January 18, 2009 Author Posted January 18, 2009 Very good. Thank you again for lending your thoughts. Quote
Joe_Poulton Posted January 18, 2009 Posted January 18, 2009 I was up there yesterday. The snowpack was hard and frozen. However, If the top layer softens more and water percolates deeper into the pack there is a 6inch layer of blue ice a few feet into the pack. In some areas the ice is exposed...If you start walking on less then frozen snow. Be aware of a possible avy danger due to the ice layer. Quote
indigosage Posted January 18, 2009 Posted January 18, 2009 There was lots of ice fall up there yesterday from the Steel Cliffs, through the Pearly Gates and to the left of the Old Chute. As the weather inversion continues it is likely that there will continue to be ice fall. Might be better to wait until it starts to get down to freezing overnight again (not predicted until late in the week). There was a climber injured today by icefall. Be safe and be smart if you go. Quote
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