marc_leclerc Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 Trip: Upper Fraser Valley - 'Never A Bride' and 'Mousetrap' Date: 12/22/2008 Trip Report: Matt Kidd came up to Agassiz Saturaday and we went to Bridal Falls and climbed 'Never A Bride' (WI4). We climbed it in two pitches, The first being a 45m WI3, The ice was a bit thin at the ledges at the end of the pitch so I Belayed at a tree to the right of the route. Matt took the 2nd pitch (WI4 with crappy pro)up the final curtains and belayed me from a tree on the left. Two Raps down. Afterthat we drove around then hiked in to 'Powerhouse Falls' but it was getting late and the route looked a bit wet and hollow. We decided that climbing it wasn't worth the dark bushwack out and walked out. On Sunday we climbed 'Mousetrap', a classic moderate near Hope. We hiked in to the base and soloed the first pitch (WI2) I led the steeper second pitch (WI3) on fat ice. Even though it was no harder than the first pitch of 'Never A Bride' the ice was bomber and I placed half as many screws Matt led another easy pitch (WI2) up the narrow gulley, he climbed fast and placed only one screw cuz it was super easy then brought me up. I led off but it was so easy that I told Matt just to start simul climbing and we climbed together to the base of the crux pitch. After a bite to eat Matt led the crux which went at WI3+ or 4-. It stated up a fat steep curtain, then went up some egg-shell over snow (unpleasnt but short) climbed one more short vertical step then up easier (but slurpee-ish) ice to the top. Matt had a belay epic as the ropes were coated in ice from the 'slurpee' section and he had to haul on them to get them through his device. After seconding the crux I led a pitch of powder wallowing/stemming up the narrow gulley, I reached a section with snow over a wet pool, got my right foot wet, and then climbed some steep but easy ice out the left side of the gulley to a ramp. We did a short bush thrash around the snow covered pool to reach the next step. Because my pitch was short and kinda lame compared to Matt's last lead I got the sharp end on the last easy pitch (WI2-ish) From the top of this pitch (P7 or 8???) We took a ramp into the forest on the climbers left. The forest was steep and sucked and I forgot a tool at a rappell. After thrashing and rappelling down by headlamp we reached the base and packed up. On Monday we hiked up to climber's right of the route, crossed the gulley below our highpoint and retrieved the tool I forgot Overall the routes were great, 'Mousetrap' was the better of the two because of length and ice quality (although NAB is completely worthwhile) The only thing that would make 'Mousetrap' better would be more steep sections. Overall it was a pretty awesome weekend! Gear Notes: Screws (shorter for NAB)... tools Approach Notes: Drive, Walk. Quote
marc_leclerc Posted December 23, 2008 Author Posted December 23, 2008 Matt Approaching 'Never A Bride' Me leading P1 of NAB Matt checks out 'Powerhouse Falls' Beginning of 'Moustrap' (left) and 'Better mousetrap' (right) P2 of 'Moustrap' , this was an awesome pitch on a great climb.... P3 of 'Moustrap' , this section was super easy and we ended up simul-ing a bunch... Quote
Choada_Boy Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 No mention of vandalizing a car with bestiality cartoons? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted December 23, 2008 Author Posted December 23, 2008 No mention of vandalizing a car with bestiality cartoons? Technically you vandalized our truck first.... it was a good try but I think our cartoon won overall. Quote
CascadeClimber Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 Trip: Upper Fraser Valley - 'Never A Bride' and 'Mousetrap' Matt had a belay epic as the ropes were coated in ice from the 'slurpee' section and he had to haul on them to get them through his device. Great route- it just keeps going and going and going. I had a belay just like that- standing on a narrow, deep frozen pool wondering how thick the ice was, and sweating profusely trying to clean ice off the ropes and pull them through the device, wondering if I was about to plunge through the ice into the water. My shoulder was sore for days. Quote
mickebob Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 where are these areas? I would love to go, but am unsure where to go ? Quote
G-spotter Posted December 23, 2008 Posted December 23, 2008 There is this thing called Google.... it answers questions such as yours! Quote
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