ivan Posted December 14, 2008 Posted December 14, 2008 Trip: Beacon Rawk - Hibernal Hi-Jinx C2 Date: 12/13/2008 Trip Report: man - where was the storm of the century? a novel approach if i had some sorta photo software the colors could be fixed on this to make it sweet an awkward place for 2 in the slick season LLP Pimp-towne improved pimp-towne pimp-shack round 2 for ol'geoff reach for the sky, m*th*rf*ck*r apparently no one felt like fishing 2day? frak'n'tree your friend and humble narrator gets into the game - a good solid giant-hook move and some sketch goes around a corner to good gear and an old pin w/ webbing i was able to pull apart, rei-return-style, w/ me rukers note the pimptacular propane heater bitzes! rapped off into gathering cold and rain - made the Great Getaway - scored yet another free starbucks back in camas! rope fixed to larry's anchor currently - all are welcome to hop on and see what they can manage b4 the closure sets in - looks like another belay will be necessary after going around a blind corner - should just be a 1/4 pitch up to exit from there, but maybe some blocks to deal w/? - left a fixed nut eqaulized to slings around pine tree at the top of the uprising exit Gear Notes: propane heater bum shack material jubale(s)! giant ass sky-hook necessary for section above larrys 2 pin anchor - 20 feet above is an old pin Approach Notes: up then down Quote
Lucky Larry Posted December 14, 2008 Posted December 14, 2008 well done ol'boy; i wouldn't trust old larry's 2 pin rap anchor though. Quote
ivan Posted December 15, 2008 Author Posted December 15, 2008 well done ol'boy; i wouldn't trust old larry's 2 pin rap anchor though. those pins look real good dude, and i certainly wailed on both of them before trusting them the nice thing 'bout your anchor now larry is that, if you're tall as me, you can totally skip that chamber of death that you had to crawl into - gawd, that place looked hideous! i was able to step way up high though and snag the anchor though - a c4 #5 back it up beautifully too - also looks like having a #6 might take some of the sting out of that lower chamber, if the anchor was gone or you were a dimunitive bastard so did you not see that old fixed pin and 10 year old bail sling larry? definetly looks like one of the old timers had passed through there before you! i wonder what they found around the corner though? Quote
geoff Posted December 15, 2008 Posted December 15, 2008 Speaking of the old bail sling, the word came down from on high that it is to be saved for entry into the museum. Quote
ivan Posted December 15, 2008 Author Posted December 15, 2008 Speaking of the old bail sling, the word came down from on high that it is to be saved for entry into the museum. ha! well...didn't we leave that up there on the ledge? probably half way to china by now if so... the damn near rusted shut tweaked out biner is still proudly sitting on the pin up there though, through my equally old-ass quickdraw Quote
ivan Posted January 12, 2009 Author Posted January 12, 2009 after this weekend the route's finally ready for a complete FA - the old fixed pin i had reached was the end of the pioneers attempt back in the age of the dinosaurs, based on the jungle i chopped out and the mega-boulders i cast down like the soddomites of old - a fine anchor is found just past the former death-blocks, past the old fixed pin w/ my bail sling on it (the old-skewl biner i've left hanging on it is quite the relic too ) - you'll have to bring the second up at the anchor, then you have a wild, overhanging final 15 feet to gain walk-off (albeit crazy moss-encrusted) ground on over to "uprising" thinking the final name oughta be "it takes a village" given the contribution of the nameless first folks many decades ago who started the line, then larry and geoff who repeated it, plus bill n' kyle who provided their own important contributions saturday land of the little people, properly viewed portrait of the artist as a young man plenty of blood on my pants after becomign massive hand-wound harry Quote
JosephH Posted January 13, 2009 Posted January 13, 2009 I still can't tell if that's the line I started to free three years ago or not. Is it just immediately left of the moves onto LoLP and has a pod that had a small shrub in the top of it? That one is a very nice line, but that shrub was definitely has/had to go before it could be freed. Quote
ivan Posted January 13, 2009 Author Posted January 13, 2009 I still can't tell if that's the line I started to free three years ago or not. Is it just immediately left of the moves onto LoLP and has a pod that had a small shrub in the top of it? That one is a very nice line, but that shrub was definitely has/had to go before it could be freed. sounds like it, though i never saw a shrub there - this pic might help - chekc out the larger version in my gallery - it follows that left trending fault in the blank, overhanging-ness above the lolp ledge - note in this picture the massive block by my right foot - that ended up smashing a tree at the base and stopping 2 feet shy of the tracks, where it made a most pleasing and distinctive ringing sound on metal - kyle and bill were down there to prevent the zombie apocalypse though the indian side in the mist Quote
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