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[TR] Beacon Rawk - Hibernal Hi-Jinx C2 12/13/2008


ivan

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Trip: Beacon Rawk - Hibernal Hi-Jinx C2

 

Date: 12/13/2008

 

Trip Report:

man - where was the storm of the century?

LaL1.jpg

a novel approach

LaL2.jpg

if i had some sorta photo software the colors could be fixed on this to make it sweet

Lal3.jpg

an awkward place for 2 in the slick season

lal4.jpg

LLP Pimp-towne

LaL5.jpg

improved pimp-towne pimp-shack

lal6.jpg

round 2 for ol'geoff

lal7.jpg

reach for the sky, m*th*rf*ck*r

lal8.jpg

apparently no one felt like fishing 2day?

lal9.jpg

frak'n'tree

lal91.jpg

your friend and humble narrator gets into the game - a good solid giant-hook move and some sketch goes around a corner to good gear and an old pin w/ webbing i was able to pull apart, rei-return-style, w/ me rukers

lal92.jpg

note the pimptacular propane heater bitzes!

lal93.jpg

rapped off into gathering cold and rain - made the Great Getaway - scored yet another free starbucks back in camas!

lal94.jpg

rope fixed to larry's anchor currently - all are welcome to hop on and see what they can manage b4 the closure sets in - looks like another belay will be necessary after going around a blind corner - should just be a 1/4 pitch up to exit from there, but maybe some blocks to deal w/? - left a fixed nut eqaulized to slings around pine tree at the top of the uprising exit

 

 

Gear Notes:

propane heater

bum shack material

jubale(s)!

 

giant ass sky-hook necessary for section above larrys 2 pin anchor - 20 feet above is an old pin

 

Approach Notes:

up then down

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well done ol'boy; i wouldn't trust old larry's 2 pin rap anchor though.

those pins look real good dude, and i certainly wailed on both of them before trusting them

 

the nice thing 'bout your anchor now larry is that, if you're tall as me, you can totally skip that chamber of death that you had to crawl into - gawd, that place looked hideous! i was able to step way up high though and snag the anchor though - a c4 #5 back it up beautifully too - also looks like having a #6 might take some of the sting out of that lower chamber, if the anchor was gone or you were a dimunitive bastard

 

so did you not see that old fixed pin and 10 year old bail sling larry? definetly looks like one of the old timers had passed through there before you! i wonder what they found around the corner though?

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Speaking of the old bail sling, the word came down from on high that it is to be saved for entry into the museum.

ha! well...didn't we leave that up there on the ledge? probably half way to china by now if so... :)

 

the damn near rusted shut tweaked out biner is still proudly sitting on the pin up there though, through my equally old-ass quickdraw :P

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  • 4 weeks later...

after this weekend the route's finally ready for a complete FA - the old fixed pin i had reached was the end of the pioneers attempt back in the age of the dinosaurs, based on the jungle i chopped out and the mega-boulders i cast down like the soddomites of old - a fine anchor is found just past the former death-blocks, past the old fixed pin w/ my bail sling on it (the old-skewl biner i've left hanging on it is quite the relic too :) ) - you'll have to bring the second up at the anchor, then you have a wild, overhanging final 15 feet to gain walk-off (albeit crazy moss-encrusted) ground on over to "uprising"

 

thinking the final name oughta be "it takes a village" given the contribution of the nameless first folks many decades ago who started the line, then larry and geoff who repeated it, plus bill n' kyle who provided their own important contributions saturday :)

 

land of the little people, properly viewed

village1.JPG

portrait of the artist as a young man

village2.JPG

plenty of blood on my pants after becomign massive hand-wound harry

village3.JPG

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I still can't tell if that's the line I started to free three years ago or not. Is it just immediately left of the moves onto LoLP and has a pod that had a small shrub in the top of it? That one is a very nice line, but that shrub was definitely has/had to go before it could be freed.

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I still can't tell if that's the line I started to free three years ago or not. Is it just immediately left of the moves onto LoLP and has a pod that had a small shrub in the top of it? That one is a very nice line, but that shrub was definitely has/had to go before it could be freed.

sounds like it, though i never saw a shrub there - this pic might help - chekc out the larger version in my gallery - it follows that left trending fault in the blank, overhanging-ness above the lolp ledge - note in this picture the massive block by my right foot - that ended up smashing a tree at the base and stopping 2 feet shy of the tracks, where it made a most pleasing and distinctive ringing sound on metal - kyle and bill were down there to prevent the zombie apocalypse though :)

village6.JPG

 

the indian side in the mist

village5.JPG

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