[TR] Mt Hood - SouthSide 11/15/2008

[benb]

Trip: Mt Hood - SouthSide

 

Date: 11/15/2008

 

Trip Report:

Driving to work Friday morning, the anticipation was killing me. After a week of monsoon, the skies were clear and I knew Hood would be glowing with new snow up high. Just as I rounded the corner, there it was in the rearview, coated with goodness, at least the top 2,500ft. Focusing back on the road my mind began to wander just as the huge moon caught my eye. Could it be, Could it actually be? Yes, yes it can.

With my climbing amigo enjoying new fatherhood, I tied my boots solo style , at 3:30, pumped at the prospects of a long walk under the moon. I was surprised to find myself totally alone. I can not remember having such great conditions, on a weekend, on the Southside with no one else out to play. If you were thinking about it, and didn’t, thanks!

You all know the story up to triangle moraine. The only notable comment is, I had to strap on crampons just above palmer. Melt from the day before was slick, real slick. Standing on the hogsback at 6:30, the decision was the pearly gates, or the old chute. The OC looked good and with the limited amount of snow, was not sure about the gates all by myself.

I have never seen the old chute so steep. It was a kick in the pants. The snow was rock hard and made for great front pointing. I know what you are thinking, but it’s the truth. It is steep right now. The top of the chute had two 15ft ice ledges, both had sweet little chutes through them and several big steps. Way more interesting than I dared to hope for. Having the summit to myself was a treat. I waved down to Brian in Hood River and started back down. I had a 5mil cord with me and decided to use it to get down the steps at the top on the chute. I dug a trench around a big-ol ice chunk and body rapped while down climbing to the chute proper. I ended up front-point down climbing all the way to the bergschrund, that’s how steep she was today.

My old man is a lifty at T-line. I stopped by the top of the mile to say hi and bum a ride down. With a warm breeze blowing up the hill and a smile on my face. I kicked back and enjoyed the chair ride down to the lodge. Heck yes, Home by 10:30 with coffie still on, and hugs and kisses from my kidos, life is good.

[ivan]

a great feeling, and a sneaky one too, to have porked that fabled whore life for a few rare minutes, good n' proper!

[shortstow]

you are welcome,

 

thought but didnt....dam!

 

glad someone got out there and did it, any pics?

[natazoo]

Way to go Ben. I had a feeling that you would go for it. I was thinking of you up on the hill as I changed diapers every 2 hours. Sounds like it proved to be a little more exciting than the usual southside run. Looking forward to reaping the benefits of the Family & Medical Leave Act with a winter climb soon.

[hkrhnk11]

I was drooling over that mountain as the weekend was slipping through my hands up near sherrard point. Hopefully the weather will hold till wed...

 

Last time I was on the S side I had to drag a friend with bad knees down on his butt from crater rock, and all I got from the Timberline staff was a bunch of bitching 'cause I was too close to the snow park. That's what I get for trying to avoid a rescue.

[billbob]

Was walking around Crater Rock yesterday 4am-ish and noticed pretty substantial cracks in the ice slab, was wondering if anything was set to slide off into devils kitchen. Looks strange up there, not Hogsback to speak of, the whole way up I didn't see more than a trace of snow, just a ton of ice. Glad you made it back safe and sound !

[benb]

Crack propagation had my attention. I was planning on digging a pit to help check the stability but found the effort useless because it was all rock hard. A couple of clues that helped me decide to go:

1. No signs of avalanche activity, nothing had slid

2. Falling rime left several debris tracks down the slope which indicated some level of stability.

3. I was able to spot and follow a line that skirted above cracks and the slope proper, weaving in and out of rime covered rocks.

4. The snow pack was an Ice pack.

I spent as little time as possible where the slope did not instill the most confidence.

Was there risk take? A little, always a little.

 

[pc313]

damm still no hogs back?