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[TR] Morning Star Peak - East Route 10/26/2008


benmurphy

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Trip: Morning Star Peak - East Route

 

Date: 10/26/2008

 

Trip Report:

Background: Tried to climb this one last Sunday with 2 others...ascended the large slab east of the route shown in the Beckey guide then headed up the gully shown in the Beckey guide...turn out this is the wrong gully. We didn't have time to go down and back up the correct gully so we scrambled up the peak east of the true summit...

 

Armed with knowledge of the correct route, I went back this Sunday to tag the true summit...Last week there was no snow, this week there was quite a bit...hence i decided against the slab route...ended up leaving the river basin at about 3,300 feet and ascending brush, wet slab, steep snow gullies, rock, etc. If it weren't for veggie belays (going up and down), I'm not sure I'd of made it...Several safety stops saw me to the summit...Good times...

 

Point I turned upslope:

boulder_turn_upslope.JPG

 

Slab with snow:

east_slab_with_snow.JPG

 

Looking towards notch (right most):

looking_towards_notch.JPG

 

Looking down route from notch:

looking_down_route_from_notch.JPG

 

obligatory summit shot:

rr_on_summit.JPG

 

Vesper, Headlee Pass, Sperry:

vesper_sperry_from_summit.JPG

 

Monte Cristo Peaks:

monte_cristo_range.JPG

 

Notch from South/East on Descent:

notch_from_south.JPG

 

Car to summit - 4 hours

Summit to car - 3 hours

 

Gear Notes:

rolling rock and vodka

 

Approach Notes:

wet brush, slide alder, devil's club, slippery frozen trees and boulders...

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The one with the diagonal banding is Del Campo. The face pictured, the NW Face, is in my opinion one of the best easy ski mountaineering day trips I've done that are close to Seattle. The time to go is as soon as the Mtn Loop Highway opens to the bottom of that Sunrise Mine road. From the notch at upper right, there is a short and mildly exciting pitch to the summit.

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