Exit 32 trad?

[Braydon]

I went to exit 32 for the first time the other day. We were at Black Wall (I think it's the first on you come across) and we spotted at least 4 good looking crack climbs. We were only in that area and were wondering if there are other trad climbs dotted around Little Si or is this area a rarity?

 

Even though it's not as good rock sure beats driving all the way over to Index to crack climb.

[TimL]

Nothing beats driving all the way over to crack climb at Index, not even flying all the way across the big pond.

 

On the other hand, talk to Alex about some possible crack routes he knows of in 32.

[Alex]

Agreed that Index is it when it comes to West side trad climbing. Castle Rock and other spots in Leavenworth rule too.

 

Rad and I have been putting up some multi-pitch trad and trad/mixed routes at exit 38 the last two years, but while there is one easy route (.8-ish), most pitches are seeing about a 5.10c to 5.10d consensus. PM me if you are interested. This time of year it's getting very questionable as to whether anything will remain dry enough.

[Braydon]

Alex? Anybody?

[Rad]

Actually, the 38 trad lines Alex mentions should be mostly dry (or as dry as anything on the W side of the range) given eastern and somewhat southern exposure. The trad lines so far go about (based on some feedback) 8, 8, 9+, 10b, 10+ (mixed bolts and trad).

 

The routes you mention at 32 are probably the ones in the Repo 1 area. There is a 5.6 crack that takes gear. A 10b crack (mambo jambo) that is fun but short and would get 5.8 at Index. Kinder gentler carpet bombing (5.9) is bolted but supposedly will go trad. A 10a left of Goddess looks 3inchish and decent if you want that. There is a 5.8 corner left of Street Cleaner. A 10c something on a wall that needs more traffic.

 

In sort, there are a smattering of trad lines. Except for the RepoI climbs, which attract newbies like the Great Northern Slab, most trad lines at 32 see little traffic as people mostly go there for sport routes and don't bring the rack.

 

Does that start to answer your question?

[minx]

there's a .10b thing that i can never remember the name of thats pretty wide but doesn't see a done of traffic. nice work out.

[Braydon]

I know index is awesome but a high school student can't afford to go there from issaquah 2-3 times a week. Exit 32 is like 15 minutes from my house.

[Braydon]

 

The routes you mention at 32 are probably the ones in the Repo 1 area. There is a 5.6 crack that takes gear. A 10b crack (mambo jambo) that is fun but short and would get 5.8 at Index. Kinder gentler carpet bombing (5.9) is bolted but supposedly will go trad. A 10a left of Goddess looks 3inchish and decent if you want that. There is a 5.8 corner left of Street Cleaner. A 10c something on a wall that needs more traffic.

 

Thanks. Is the 5.6 the short one across from mambo jambo? We wanted to do mambo jampo but I didn't have enough gear and it looked pretty akward so i would probably want to protect it pretty well.

[archenemy]

It only looks awkward, it really isn't that bad. And you can get away with minimal gear. But Carpet Bombing is a blast!

[Mountains]

There is a really fun mixed route, one of my favorites at 32, called Bioclimatic Quandry 5.9. It begins with a 2 bolt face, then meanders up a solid crack 5.6/7ish? (which takes excellent gear) with exposed fun moves, and finishes on a steep 5 bolt face. The crack is maybe 25ft and would be a great lead for a solid 5.9 climber learning to place pro.

 

Sweet and Sticky 5.9 has a cool route to the left of it which can be TR'd from the same anchors. The climb does not have a name in Smoots guide. Begins as a face with 2 bolts, then a seam/crack which takes good but finicky gear, and finishes through a bolted roof/face.