Good forearm workout?

[Guest]

Any good forearm workouts for flashing those overhangs?

[Courtenay]

Depends on what you are already doing: Pullups, grip training with thick bars or on campus boards, reverse curls? What level are you climbing and how often/how long do you climb? Mostly gym climbing, or sport (outside) too? With these we can help you get a little more specific.

[pope]

Now I'm not athletic trainer...if anything, I'm more of a supporter. But my advice (that is, the prescription I followed throughout my extremely successful climbing career) goes something like this: Back when, way back when, before rubber was all that sticky, back when Friends were just showing up on the average rack, I was just starting out and we didn't have much in the way of training apparatus or philosophy. I was up to Castle Rock one day, trying to lead my first 5.8, and mind you, Castle Rock has some stiff 5.8 climbs. I was struggling with a hand jam through a second "crux" bulge, trying to wank in the only Friend I owned, and only thing I owned that would fit for about a 20-foot stretch, when I noticed a group of Canadian climbers watching and shouting encouragement. These guys were leading 5.10+ routes on the Castle and were soloing everything in sight, but they were taking an interest in this sourdough's attempt at his first 5.8 lead. Anyway, I got this Friend in and I was so absolutely pumped, I thought I should hang on it. These Canadians must have read my mind and shouted that I shouldn't even think of that option. I worked up, climbed down, milked the rest, then repeated the explore/retreat cycle, all the while getting more pumped. But these Canadians kept screaming at me to hang in and give it everything, and eventually I did, and I could sense that although this was only a 5.8 climb, these guys were impressed that I HAD CLIMBED AT THE VERY EDGE OF MY LIMIT AND YET FOUND A WAY TO AVOID ALL AID.

That would be my advice, to climb in a very pure style, at or just below your limit, to put everything you have into success on your first attempt, to train your mind to persevere and to relax. Your arms will get all the work they need, but your climbing will progress to a level where you become extremely confident in your ability to climb above protection, and consequently, you'll learn to relax which will get you higher up a pitch than all that gym ratting ever will.

[Guest]

Power masturbation marathon seems sensible, but only if you're endowed

[pope]

That was going to be my other suggestion, if the previous advice didn't work out. And you know, I find Foofoo's method to provide a symmetric pump.

[This message has been edited by pope (edited 05-29-2001).]

[Guest]

quote:

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Originally posted by Courtenay:

Depends on what you are already doing: Pullups, grip training with thick bars or on campus boards, reverse curls? What level are you climbing and how often/how long do you climb? Mostly gym climbing, or sport (outside) too? With these we can help you get a little more specific.

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Do pullups (wide & narrow)pushups, & dips. Wrist curls and reverse curls. Almost all trad climbing, leading 5.7, following 5.9.

[Bob_Clarke]

I just returning from Red Rocks and flashed many over hung routes (11b, (2)11c, 11d, 12a) and was very fun. It all starts with deeply embedded edurance and a strong torso. In slab or crack climbng the objective is keeping the body over your feet by shifting your weight. In over hangs staying on the wall by keeping your weight over your toes via body tension (think like a rubber band) and lots of endurance in your forearms.

Find an over hanging route at your limit, now do a series of ten laps three times once a week for the next six weeks. It works.

[pope]

You flashed a bunch of 5.11 pitches down at the Red Rocks. Thanks...that's information we can use, and isn't that what this site is really all about? Hey, now you can go back to Index and flash about 5.10b.

[jblakley]

jkassidy,

Why the animosity bud? I know RG2001 and he loves climbing and is quite good at all the various disciplines of climbing. I think the advice he gave is totally solid. What do I know though, I'm just a poser ;-)

[Bob_Clarke]

hmmm what about Index? JBlakley should I just ask this person to go out climbing? But then he doesn't give a direct email or name so that's out of the question. hmmmm. We all must be door knobs-god 5.10b! WOW I've never know anyone to climb at THAT level.

[pope]

Rope Gun,

Don't take it personally. If you know Blakely, then you're OK by me. Yeah. I just thought you were showboatin' there with the history of your Red Rocks accomplishments, and although I've never climbed there, I heard things are a little easier than Index. But what do I know. Don't go bent out of shape...that was actually pretty good advice you were handing out. BTW, you got any favorite routes from your trip?

[Bob_Clarke]

(BTW-I wasn't bent)

Favorite routes from red Rocks:

a. Levitation 29 5.11b 9 pitches

b. Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas III 5.12b

c. Yak Crack 5.11b

c. Running Man 5.11

d. Vile Pile 5.10b

e. Frictiony Face Panty Waste 5.8

f. The Gift 5.12d

g. Stiction 5.9

 

[Charlie]

Jimbo, you know you're on here way too much when being friends with you gives you instant clout! Here that, nobody mess with me, Im in JBlakely's gang!

[EddieE]

Back to the original question:

In order for your forearms to get a complete workout, you need to get your fingers involved. Notice that if you just do pull-ups or wack your monkey, you leave your fingers in the same position - the brunt of the work being done by your back muscles leaving your forearms with a sustained isometric contraction. This is fine if climbing holds or rock features all came in one shape and size (big fatty jug). Stuff I like to do (or at least used to do):

1. Keep one of those BD donut trainers in your car and use it when you're driving around.

2. Hangboards and any of their numerous workouts you can find anywhere.

3. bucket of rice by the tv. squeeze, squeeze, squeeze.

4. Oh yeah. Climb lots. That's the best.

[haireball]

1) stack three thin weight plates and pinch them. hold the stack to failure (that is, until your pinch exhausts and the middle plate drops out.

2) hang to failure from a pull-up bar or hangboard.

3) allow sufficient rest - overtraining is arguably the most common mistake among athletes who train seriously

[Courtenay]

Something else that works well for general forearm and finger strength as well as endurance: the Farmer's walk with various thicknesses of handles -- regular dumbbells, thick-grip dumbbells, barbells, buckets with different loads. Measure off 75' and carry the weight to the end, set it down and rest, repeat. Increase as your grip gets stronger. But with everything else, don't overdo it.

[Pencil_Pusher]

It's nice to see there's plenty of folks in not too great shape that can lead 5.9 stuff. Yes, I'm lazy.