South Howser Tower Descent PSA

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Took a 3 day trip to the Bugaboos last weekend (TR here: http://zclipped.com/ ). At the hut, the warden informed us of a new bolted single rope rappel route (30m raps) down the NW Buttress of S. Howser. On the summit of S. Howser, we ran in to one of the rappel route's installers. In exchange for letting his party rappel first, he gave us some beta on the rappel. We were shocked to find that our 60m rope failed to reach many of the anchors by as much as 20'. We were able to complete all rappels using our 2nd rope, but it was a bit frustrating given the beta we received. We were using brand new ropes, so it is possible they were not true to length (seems unlikely that two ropes would be short, as both 1/2 ropes are within 1' of each other). Be advised that this new rappel route may involve rappels longer than the advertised 30m.

 

The new rappel route is otherwise very nice. It is not threatened by the large cornice form above, it crosses a smaller section of the bergshrund, it has relatively little loose rock, and it minimizes the chances of stuck ropes (there are some large rope eaters, but they did not pose a problem for us). A single 70m rope would be ideal for this new descent.

Edited September 6, 2008 by TrogdortheBurninator

[Alpinfox]

 

Very good to know. I wonder if maybe you missed a couple intermediate stations?

 

We should go back and check.

 

 

[TrogdortheBurninator]

There were definitely no intermediate stations. Just a bunch of 32-35m raps.

[moronbros]

wicked send! Jared looked like he was roughed up by a gang of angry bears. That is quite the "day climb" if you ask me. good lord.

 

Yeah this is particularly good beta. Jared told me about it and I smacked my forehead, much like you must have done the moment you guys realized the raps were set with a 70. That would seriously take all the jelly out of my donut.

 

I hear you saw Ines on the summit. Was the guy who bolted the rap route climbing with her or something?

 

Not sure how many people go out there with a 70m rope to begin with, but I can see this happening over and over again now that it's bolted like that. bummer that they're giving out beta saying it's doable with a 60.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Thanks Bill. We were both pretty wiped by the top. Dehydration was my biggest issue I think.

 

The guide who put the rap route in was climbing with Ines Papert and another strong local climber. They were very fast for a team of three.

 

Like I said, there is a chance our ropes are not long enough. I don't want to place blame, just give a heads up.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I measured out my new ropes and they are 1-2 ft shorter than an older (5 yrs or so) uncut 60m of mine. With stretch, the new 7.8s probably rap at least as far as the old 9.8 did. I do not think this new rap route can be done with a 60 m rope as advertised.

 

I put some decent beta on my website too.

http://zclipped.com/?page_id=24

[ScaredSilly]

While my partner and I now climb with a 70m rope and it is becoming more popular to use 70m ropes setting raps for this length is not a good idea. Given your first hand experience I would that you would contact the hut warden know.

[clintcummins]

Thanks for the beta on the new rappel route. As shown in your photos, it is on the NW buttress, not the NE. Too bad it is not a 60m single rope rappel route (like the rappel route down Kraus-McCarthy on Snowpatch). But probably most parties will have 2 ropes with them, in case they have to bail down the Beckey-Chouinard.

[Doug_Hutchinson]

Just did the BeckeyChouinard last weekend and wanted to add my $0.02 to the descent beta since it definitely has some raps over 30M long (despite what the official beta pic below shows) and we still managed to screw it up in the dark; so here goes...

 

At the parking lot, Kain Hut and Applebee; you'll run across this misleading topo:

 

 

Misleading because several raps are longer than 30M and it describes things like "horizontal" rappels

 

Below is a combo of Jared's beta, that on the pic, and some of my own:

 

All rap anchors you want to use are newer two bolt, rap-style anchors with chains and steel rings. If you come across a slung block (on first rap), you should skip it and look for chains a little lower.

 

1) Scramble down and right about 20 feet W. of the summit block to find bolted anchor on a vertical cube. The anchor is on the side of the "cube" that faces Central Howser Tower. Rap 28M over lower angle terrain towards Central Howser.

 

2) Make a very short rappel (or scramble) over low angled terrain along the ridge crest in the same direction. (15-20M)

 

3) Rappel NW along a low angled, narrow ridge for 30M (still basically heading for Central Howser). Do not rappel on to the N. Face. This rappel was weird (especially since the ridge was covered with snow and ice) since it was like walking backward down a diving board. It was hard to not rap right or left of the ridge since it is so low-angled, but the trick is to stay on the ridge to a tent-sized ledge below a short vertical drop. If you get to this ledge/anchor, you are almost home free since the remaining anchors are pretty easy to find.

 

4) Rappel a steep W facing corner (more or less plumb line) to station just slightly climbers left of center of this corner system (25M)

 

5) Continue down the steep wall to an obvious large ledge (35m). This ledge is large enough that if you rap off the end of your 60M, you'll probably be OK.

 

6) Rappel down a diagonal ledge system climber's left to a gully. This rap is taking you away from Central Howser towards the East Ridge. (32M) (The remaining raps are basically plumb line down a steep face)

 

7) Rappel the steep NE facing buttress (slabby face) staying just climbers right of gully (32M)

 

8) Stay on buttress crest and rap only about 20M to a very small stance (semi-hanging) - note this is a little shorter. Although billed as "hard to find" - the anchor is directly below the one above (20M).

 

9) Make another shorter rap just like #8 (20M).

 

10) Rap 30M to anchor just above the 'schrund. Billed as "slightly climber's right, it felt plumb again.

 

11) Rap over 'schrund and keep going to the end of your rope onto the Vowell Glacier . 35M took us to lower angled snow (18" of powder last weekend!) which was easy to walk off in approach shoes.

 

Bottom line is just use a light 70M single for both up (lots of 60M or longer pitches) and down. Taking two skinny 50M or 60M ropes would be a nightmare of stuck knots or arm fulls of rat's nests on the lower angle rap ridges.

 

Like everyone else has said, the BC is really an awesome climb. Enjoy!