[TR] The Chief, Squamish. - Uncle Ben's (V 5.8 A2+) 7/20/2008

[devinejohnny]

Trip: The Chief, Squamish. - Uncle Ben's (V 5.8 A2+)

 

Date: 7/20/2008

 

Trip Report:

Big walls marked the start and finish of a month and a half long climbing road trip with my friend Darin this summer. After starting in the Valley in June, we worked our way north and ended with a week in Squamish. We had looked forward to being back in an area where there was a “scene,” but were dismayed to find the chaos of the Mountain Festival in full swing. We spent an afternoon bouldering in the forest and got to have a session with Cedar Wright on Easy Chair. We decided to head for the high lonesome to avoid the crowds.

 

We bived out at the Spit on Saturday night (the good, hidden pull off on the right side is now closed BTW), and began gearing up for Uncle Ben’s, something that I had had my sites on for quite a while.

 

After running around town to pick up some requisite items, we bumped two loads of junk up to the top of Flake Ledge and fixed the first two pitches of Merci Me (heading left mid way up the second pitch, not towards the Grand), sans chalk and in street shoes.

 

We bived on top the Flake that night (not that comfortable. Oh, and thanks to whoever shit right in the middle of the ledge like a wild animal). We met a couple of Quebec dudes who were rappelling down fixed lines from the third pitch. They said that they had attempted to do the wall in a day, but that was not going to happen. We shared a beer with them and swapped some funny stories. The fixed lines where not theirs, however. The owners of these lines returned the next morning and toped out that afternoon.

 

From the top of Merci Me I aided a 10c pitch (I only had street shoes) that heads straight left. You get to sit on the tree for the belay. This is where we did our first haul from, bringing the bags up from Flake Ledge.

 

The pig on Flake Ledge waiting to be dragged up the slab.

 

Darin took the next pitch, a beautiful right ward slanting crack that ends with some airy moves out over a roof (we skipped the anchors under the roof). Above the roof there are three bolts, then some hooking/free climbing to the anchors. The rock blew on Darins first hook move and he whipped past the bolts and under the roof, in the full blast of two other parties awe.

 

After the roof, I lead an invigorating pitch with lots of tiny hook moves in a row. This took us to our first bivy, just below the "classic bivy" that is written in the guide (didn't look to classic to me when we passed it the next day). We patched up some gear that got shredded on the slab haul and put on all our layers, as it was chilly.

 

 

The next day we climbed to two pitches from the top.

 

Chunky soup sponsorship?

 

We watched a speeding motorcycle get pulled over the second night. We heckled the whole scene loudly.

 

We woke to threatening weather both mornings, but our trusty radio, El Pepe put our fears to rest. It was pleasant climbing weather.

 

A young Warren Harding?

 

The final day we broke the first traversing pitch in half so that we could leave our gear at the rappel station in the middle.

 

The last pitch was a grunt. Something larger that the #4's we had would have helped here.

 

We enjoyed some lunch on the Dance Platform before our raps

 

The raps took us 1.5 hours from top to bottom. We did 6 double rope raps in total. The third was a bit sketch and you might want to break it in two. I found my self 50m out on the rope with a huge load under me, my feet barely able to touch the wall, and my next rap anchors 30 feet to my right. It took a bit of timing with the wind and momentum to final stick them. Sketch.

 

Gear Notes:

Bring hooks. Double sky hooks and maybe double talons. There are a number of areas where you are 4-5 hook moves out. I found myself wishing I could use the hook I was currently sitting on for the next move. The black sickle has lots of fresh copper heads that should last for a number of years, but a couple of beaks, knife blades, and lost arrows should get you past any missing fixed gear. We only had to place one pin on the white sickle pitch where it looks like a knife blade used to be. Sorry, rock. Bigger gear than #4 for the last pitch; number 5 of 6. All the bolts are solid and most of the stations have chains.

 

Approach Notes:

Can all big walls have such a short approach? We hiked to the top of Flake Ledge and began with the firs two pitches of Merci Me.

[counterfeitfake]

Right on! We passed you guys on the way to the Grand Wall. Watching you lower out from that roof reminded me why I haven't been aid climbing in a while...

[ivan]

man, looks fun! but why was there still pbr left to be drunk in the morning?

[ScottPick]

Damn nice photos on an epic wall.

[DirtyHarry]

Nice. That's some classic big wall action.

 

At the base of the Grand Wall a few years back someone threw off a bag of shit that came somewhat near hitting us. I told some locals later who blamed it on Quebecois. Il n'y a pas de quoi.