[TR] Stuart - N. Ridge 7/20/2008

[ptownclimber]

Trip: Stuart - N. Ridge

 

Date: 7/20/2008

 

Trip Report:

While climbing lately I have often been caught up in a driven, motivated, aggressive, lighter, faster, run-it-out, "git er done" mindset. I even went so far as to tell Gabrielle that 'impatience' is a much maligned word like 'stubborn' or 'picky' - with an undeserved bad rap. This weekend, I learned a good lesson from my friends, Gabrielle and the Jeffs. We planned to approach Saturday, climb Sunday and descend Monday. I packed a light bivy set-up and enough food for two days, figuring there was only a chance that we would need Monday for the descent.

 

From Ingalls Lake:

 

 

Getting out of town 'early' on Friday is always easier said than done. We stopped in Hood River for beer and pizza, and rolled out of there just in time to catch the insane summer sunset of pink, orange and blue. Before we cleared the on-ramp there were flashing lights behind us. We all took a deep breath and sighed happily when we were given a warning to use the turn signals within 150 feet of the turn. Good karma. This must bode well for the climb, we figured. Now the back seat of Jeff's ride is capacious, so I was lucky enough to sleep most of the rest of the way. I awoke on the gravel road, and was soon crashed out again. The morning dawned cold, and we didn't see the sun until we were quite a way up the trail. Thankfully, we didn't have much for mosquitoes except for right at the end of Ingalls Lake. We spent forty five minutes at goat pass: napping, soaking up the sun and enjoying life in general. Jeff was surprised at how low the glacier was relative to past years - the crossing (with crampons) was easy going. Soon we were in the gully, which we found nearly devoid of snow. Fun, delicate scrambling (the first portion had some loose rocks) led us to the palatial bivy spots at the notch. With four hours of daylight left, we decided to relax, do some yoga, air out our feet, and take in the sunset and views, one hour at at time. Decadence.

 

Crossing the glacier and ascending the gully:

 

Views from the bivy spot:

 

We started after the morning sun had some time to warm us up. We had seen a few people on Saturday, but Sunday we had the route to ourselves. We wouldn't see other people again until the top of Longs Pass. The North Ridge did not disappoint - pitch after pitch of fine, beautiful, mostly exposed granite. Great conditions and great climbing. We simul-climbed all but 4 pitches, and hauled packs over the two gendarme pitches (that took some time, but climbing the 5.9's without packs is the way to go). We had just a little bit of routefinding trouble at the top of the second gendarme pitch. Soon enough we were at the summit, taking in the dropping sun and relishing in the sense of accomplishment and camaraderie. We found two more good bivy spots and got together for another fine alpine dining experience. The trick when you drop some cheese in the sand: don't chew.

 

Argonaut and N. Ridge of Sherpa from the N. Ridge:

 

Gabrielle and I were benighted last summer after doing Sherpa Peak.

 

Simply beautiful ridge climbing:

 

Wee-hour views from the second bivy:

 

The easiest way around a relatively steep snow patch and down the east ridge was to climb back up to the summit, which was a nice way to start the day. The sunshine seemed to add twenty degrees in the morning. We had mostly good luck following the cairns down to Cascadian Couloir. As we approached the dense treeline, the temperature really started to climb. How quickly the environment changed around us. We somehow felt it necessary to lose the trail after it crossed the creek, just to keep that North Cascades feeling, I suppose. The thought of Mexican food motivated us on the hike out. Even the trudge up and over Longs Pass was enjoyable in that context. We took some time washing up and soaking our feet in the creek, and enjoyed driving home in daylight for a change.

 

I can't say enough about how generous Jeff was, driving, sharing gear and food, and generally being a zen master. Jeff and Gabrielle were great, too. And I learned a good deal about relaxing, taking it in, and enjoying the moment. I've never seen (noticed?) so many wildflowers on a climb before. Thanks, y'all, for another great climb.

 

 

Gear Notes:

-green C3, red and yellow TCU's, #1 and #3 camalots, nuts, tricams and many slings; #4 camalot seemed optional as there was a fixed cam

-one stove for the four of us (amazing how good freeze dried food can taste at elevation after a good day of expending energy)

-extra camera batteries - didn't need them

-bivied in a puffy coat with two thin layers underneath - could have used a little more

-extra socks :-)

-apples, chocolate, nuts, gummi bears, rolls, hummus, flatbread...and leftover pizza

[DirtyHarry]

Shit. Guess I didn't get the memo that they moved Mt. Stuart to the North Cascades.

 

Nice picture though.

[marc_leclerc]

Yeah, mountains are just teleporting from place to place these days... soon K2's gonna be in our back yard!

[Peakpimp]

Ha Ha very Funny! Awesome TR though... Great pics!

[webnick2007]

sweet tr - rawkin trip. are the 5.9s pretty consistent or do nuts fill in for a few cams?

[ptownclimber]

sweet tr - rawkin trip. are the 5.9s pretty consistent or do nuts fill in for a few cams?

 

I think we only placed 2-3 cams on the first 5.9 pitch and a couple of nuts. There's a pin at the start of the second pitch, then the big cams, then you're pretty much done.

 

There's a pin higher up on the second 5.9 pitch, but we got off a little and ended up circumnavigating that section.

 

I did think the 5.9 pitches protected nicely - great climbing.

 

And yeah...I guess I should have looked closer about where CC places Stuart...