Exit 38 Beta please?

[shaoleung]

We were climbing at the Far Side's Interstate Park - Eastern Block. We climbed Tunnel of Love and noticed a couple of stiff lines on the opposite wall.

 

I climbed the bolted traverse thinking it was the easy approach to the anchors of an overhanging .11(?). Turns out the traverse was probably a .10. Does anyone have any Beta on these climbs?

[catbirdseat]

The traverse is in Bruce's guidebook. I've heard people call it pretty lame. I've not tried it myself.

[shaoleung]

Yeah... the traverse is a definite one-move-wonder. The one is fun, but the rest is weak. The short steep run on the same anchors was cool though. Am I blind?... I can't find it in the guide book.

 

[Rad]

The overhanging line under the traverse anchors is a short 11c power problem put up by Jens Klebberud. Not sure what the rating is on the traverse as I haven't done it.

 

[shaoleung]

Thanks Rad. I am rediscovering 38 after several years of looking elsewhere... some great climbs have been put up.

[Rad]

Jens just completed the FA on a new route he's calling Tea Time. It's at Gunshow - go down right to the 10c/11c pair and climb the line 5ft right of their shared start. It's got some great moves on clean rock - 5 or 6 bolts, 11b.

 

For some moderate routes not in the book go to this area:

 

x38 routes above Deception area - not in guide book yet

[shaoleung]

Sweet! Thanks for the beta. I'll check them out.

[Peter_Puget]

On a related topic…

 

Is Bicycling to Bellingham completely independent of Insomnia?

 

[Rad]

Names don't ring a bell. Which crag?

[shaoleung]

Interestingly enough, I climbed Insomniac right after the short 11c route. They are the "second pitches" on Headlight Point- Right. They are independent once you complete a very short 5.6: either eating rocks or eating dust.

[Peter_Puget]

I realize that there are two independent “second pitch” lines; however, from the photo-diagram in the 2nd edition guide and the written description and diagram in the 1st, it appears that Bicycling starts up Insomniac and then veers right after several bolts. Just wondering if the guide is misleading or a direct start to Bicycling was added.

 

The right hand “second pitch” is a good route. The distance between the 3rd and 4th bolt is a bit out of character for the area but the climbing is excellent.

 

[shaoleung]

From what I remember, they share a belay station (if you can really call it that) but the line appears to go directly off to the right sharing no moves with Insomniac. Having never been there before and based on what you're saying, it appears to now have a direct start. I will have to check that out next time I'm out there.

[Rad]

On a related topic…

 

Is Bicycling to Bellingham completely independent of Insomnia?

 

Good question. I tried to climb B to B on Friday, and since looked at the guide (old Bruce version).

 

Here is my assessment:

 

There are three routes/variations right of Insomnia.

 

They are:

 

1 - B to B. This starts in the hand crack (shared with Insomnia), goes up two bolts, veers slightly right into a 5.easy crack up high, and traverses right under the roof, clips a bolt at the lip of the roof, and goes to the chains. The very last moves under the roof that are the crux and the rest is much easier.

 

2 - Start at the anchor at the base of Insomnia, start up on a slanting chossy band, climb straight up quite soon on some highly textured black rock with few features (5.10 something) past two bolts, continue up past the left edge of a giant flake (#3 camalot at its top works here), clip one more bolt, place one piece (#1 camalot) in the upper crack, traverse right under the roof (joins B to B here), clip bolt at roof lip, up to chains. This is a fun climb that is more varied and runout than other routes in this area, and I thought that was a nice change. The moves under the roof are not the crux.

 

3 - Start as for 2 but keep diagonalling right on the crappy band (don't fall here as pro is not available), pass a small tree/bush (sling or you are looking at groundfall), over a small roof past two bolts, up the face with 1.5"-2" gear in a shallow crack, come straight up to the final roof-lip bolt (join 1 and 2 here), and up to the chains.

 

2 and 3 are not in the old addition of the NB guide.

 

I climbed 2, sort of, and it was pretty fun. I followed what seemed the natural line for 2, which was diagonalling right on the ramp and then up onto the face. The problem was that this left me traversing back to the 2nd bolt, making 5.10 moves and looking at a fall that would have dropped me onto the broken rock below.

 

If you know who put in the bolts please send me a pm as I have a question.

 

WARNING! There is a giant block that you layback on the left route. When my partner was following I noticed the block rocks as he pulled on it. This block is 4' x 6' x 1' and it seems to only be held in place by a small corner down and right. It would be REALLY bad if this comes off while people are on the route. It would also likely obliterate several bolts and much of the route(s) below.

 

FYI, you can link the lower approach pitch with any of the upper routes, but consider using long slings to manage ropedrag.

 

You can rap to the ground with a single 60m rope from the chains.

 

Go get some.

[MrGecko]

The block still exists in it precarious position. I did the same variation as Rad, #2. Same issues, making the crux moves while considering a fall into bad rock. I also pulled on the BIG block and it tilted before I quickly down climbed and pushed it back against the wall. It needs to go and a coordinated effort to manage the displacement of this monster should happen by those who know how to do it safely.

 

I call this route Bicycling to the Chopping Block.

 

On a related topic…

 

Is Bicycling to Bellingham completely independent of Insomnia?

 

Good question. I tried to climb B to B on Friday, and since looked at the guide (old Bruce version).

 

Here is my assessment:

 

There are three routes/variations right of Insomnia.

 

They are:

 

1 - B to B. This starts in the hand crack (shared with Insomnia), goes up two bolts, veers slightly right into a 5.easy crack up high, and traverses right under the roof, clips a bolt at the lip of the roof, and goes to the chains. The very last moves under the roof that are the crux and the rest is much easier.

 

2 - Start at the anchor at the base of Insomnia, start up on a slanting chossy band, climb straight up quite soon on some highly textured black rock with few features (5.10 something) past two bolts, continue up past the left edge of a giant flake (#3 camalot at its top works here), clip one more bolt, place one piece (#1 camalot) in the upper crack, traverse right under the roof (joins B to B here), clip bolt at roof lip, up to chains. This is a fun climb that is more varied and runout than other routes in this area, and I thought that was a nice change. The moves under the roof are not the crux.

 

3 - Start as for 2 but keep diagonalling right on the crappy band (don't fall here as pro is not available), pass a small tree/bush (sling or you are looking at groundfall), over a small roof past two bolts, up the face with 1.5"-2" gear in a shallow crack, come straight up to the final roof-lip bolt (join 1 and 2 here), and up to the chains.

 

2 and 3 are not in the old addition of the NB guide.

 

I climbed 2, sort of, and it was pretty fun. I followed what seemed the natural line for 2, which was diagonalling right on the ramp and then up onto the face. The problem was that this left me traversing back to the 2nd bolt, making 5.10 moves and looking at a fall that would have dropped me onto the broken rock below.

 

If you know who put in the bolts please send me a pm as I have a question.

 

WARNING! There is a giant block that you layback on the left route. When my partner was following I noticed the block rocks as he pulled on it. This block is 4' x 6' x 1' and it seems to only be held in place by a small corner down and right. It would be REALLY bad if this comes off while people are on the route. It would also likely obliterate several bolts and much of the route(s) below.

 

FYI, you can link the lower approach pitch with any of the upper routes, but consider using long slings to manage ropedrag.

 

You can rap to the ground with a single 60m rope from the chains.

 

Go get some.

[Rad]

The block still exists in it precarious position....It needs to go and a coordinated effort to manage the displacement of this monster should happen by those who know how to do it safely.

 

Go for it. Just make sure there is no one anywhere near the impact area. If bolts get flattened they can be replaced or not as needed. Be careful, and remember trundling is like riding a bad motor scooter, really fun by you don't want to be seen doing it. I pitched a 250 pounder off the new crag just yesterday. BOOM!