Kautz Ice Cliff

[benb]

After building a rock wind-screen at camp hazard, we heard this serac moaning. The video does not do justice to what we saw. Looking up at the Kautz Ice Cliff, we moved camp! The Kautz was an amazing climb! Kautz Ice Cliff

[benb]

oooops Check out the video on youtube, "kautz ice cliff"

[Hendershot]

Full Trip report?

 

My buddy & I were aiming to tackle it this weekend. Besides the obvious ice cliff, what were the conditions like?

 

Thanks in advance,

[Reid]

If I remember right, there are decent bivy sites on the ridge climbers left of camp hazard about 300' lower. Much safer.

[ericb]

If I recall, you can camp lower and there's a fixed line and short rock downclimb that gains the glacier lower and earlier. I think the guides use/maintain the ropes here. The big advantage is that you can scamper across the bottom of the chute (that I believe unloaded that avalanche). I think if you go as high as camp Hazard, you end up having to come down that chute, and there's much longer exposure to the objective hazard.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

If I recall, you can camp lower and there's a fixed line and short rock downclimb that gains the glacier lower and earlier. I think the guides use/maintain the ropes here. The big advantage is that you can scamper across the bottom of the chute (that I believe unloaded that avalanche). I think if you go as high as camp Hazard, you end up having to come down that chute, and there's much longer exposure to the objective hazard.

 

yes, as of 3 weeks ago the fixed line and short down climb were there

[Couloir]

Pretty good...

 

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