kevbone Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 Anyone have any idea why the webbing on some anchors is gone? Who put the new anchor in on free for some? JH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 Anyone have any idea why the webbing on some anchors is gone? Who put the new anchor in on free for some? JH? the same sling bandit that takes them every year i would guess. was it the middle or the top anchor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 the middle anchor on free for some is brand spanking new. Just rap bolts....no webbing. The webbing is gone on the "riseup" anchor. Yet the webbing is still there on Windsurfer anchor and top of free for some....interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 the middle anchor on free for some is brand spanking new. Just rap bolts....no webbing. The webbing is gone on the "riseup" anchor. Yet the webbing is still there on Windsurfer anchor and top of free for some....interesting. not what i was hoping you'd say as that middle anchor is embarrassing and unnecessary at best. i'll replace the rise up webbing on saturday when i'm out climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 There was some talk about some rock fall at Beacon. Well as you are coming around the corner on the SE corner you stand up and step right and then straight up to tree ledge. Well there is a huge block missing from that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Kevin, the FFS mid-anchor was the last anchor replacement of last year on the way to hitting the couple of anchors above the Arena. It was replaced in lieu of removing it all together which has been a controversy in its own right for decades - Henry Barber bitched up a storm about that anchor being there. But the anchor was only there because of folks rapping on 50m ropes from various different anchors higher up. I was on the side of not removing it in case someone rapped down needing it. Some, like Mark, and 'Hot Henry' did and do consider it an embarassment. I feel it is as well, but am inclined to err on the conservative side of things on this particular anchor regardless of my personal opinion on it. There has also been discussion over the past two years of doing a complete Beacon anchor review and optimizing a few of the anchors by adjusting one side of the anchor and removing the slings/rings altogether; that, and possibly removing some anchors entirely (check with Jim and Bill). The Rise Up anchor slings and rings are gone as you only need the Windsurfer anchor to rap out off that ledge. If you want to TR Rise Up just throw some draws on it if you don't like the feel of TR'ing directly on the rap hangers, otherwise it's a lead anchor. The FFS mid-anchor is for rapping though I'd say feel entirely free to TR directly on those rap hangers (I have) as it won't feel any different than draws and you aren't going to wear them out (and if they were to wear, I'd replace them). The anchors over the Arena, on Flightime, and a couple off of Upper Grassy Ledges will be the last ones replaced along with checking the two short angles high on Stone Rodeo. Other than that I will be continuing the effort to clean out the South Face column routes that have languished and grown over in the past decade or so. Flying Swallow and Flightime will be getting a thorough going over - any and everyone is welcome to 'adopt-a-column' and clean one out themselves, I have plenty of tools for the job folks can borrow. At the end of the year we should go after the poison oak which has taken over the good lines like Lay Lady Lay and Rip City to the left of Jensens Ridge (this year for sure!). The blocks missing at the top of the slab as you turn to head up to the Tree Ledge on p2 of the SE Corner were yarded loose by a very large beginning climber in a threesome ahead of me near the end of the season last year (good thing that's all he ripped off). They were very loose and detached about an inch or so and had to go or they might have done someone in on YW. The rockfall mentioned in the safety notice, on the other hand, is coming from somewhere up by the top of the wall by the trees high and directly above the SE Corner start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Kevin, dude - Just noticed - 9,000 posts? Man, and I thought I was busy! Makes my finger tips sore just contemplating it. Do you chalk up at the keyboard? I know mine gets slick and greasy after just a few posts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Ha ha ! He got 9000 but had to chalk up for it! Wow, looking at your registration date Kev (and being math challenged), is that a post every 16 min.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkporwit Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 Ha ha ! He got 9000 but had to chalk up for it! Wow, looking at your registration date Kev (and being math challenged), is that a post every 16 min.! Actually, I think it's a post every ~3.5 hours approximately: bohun[~]% bc bc 1.06 Copyright 1991-1994, 1997, 1998, 2000 Free Software Foundation, Inc. This is free software with ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY. For details type `warranty'. 365*24*60 525600 525600 * 3.5 1839600.0 1839600.0/9006.0 204 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 No sleep ? Hard core:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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