Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
rat

notes on stellar eclipse. sort of....

Recommended Posts

more adventurous than gato negro even with offwhite's topo....more granola and lichen than we were expecting....engaging climbing on the harder pitches....head colds and lack of enthusiasm had us bypassing the last pitch (5.11-) on the tower with an easy traverse left and 5.8-5.9 pitch directly to the notch....perhaps that bypassed pitch was the "stellar" that "eclipsed" the other pitches?....i think we belayed about 7 pitches total...ice axes were useful on the descent off the backside....appears you may be able to descend the whine spire gully....a worthwhile route that could use more traffic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice Rat. Now maybe my enthusiasm has been dampened.

 

Did you do the first 5.11 bolted pitch, or bypass it? Any key route-finding notes you want to share?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

we bypassed it. it looked nice but sort of contrived. i'll leave the route finding to you. have fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looking over from gato negro I had a hard time imagining anything "stellar" coming from that part of the wall. nonetheless, it looks like a good adventure, thanks for the beta.

 

:brew:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, the "stellar" was courtesy of Silver Star, and if fuzzy memory serves, we had a lunar eclipse during the FA weekend.

 

I do think the last pitch to the Whine Spire is all that and a bag of nuts. I suspect Ross and "Lunger" may have repeated that pitch at the end of their foray on that wall, and I think they called it 5.10d. Sounds likely, Steve called it 11a (he led, cleaning lichen while dangling from finger locks), but given that I managed to follow without falling 10d might be a more likely grade.

 

If that traverse (from the end of the 5.10- pitch up the ear at the left end of the oatmeal ledge?) and final 5.9 pitch are palatable, this route would clock in at 5.10- rather than 5.11a, a much more friendly grade.

 

With regards to the first pitch, it was an afterthought added when we climbed it again in 93 to find a way around the stacked card table death pitch. Given that a 4th class ledge system bypasses that initial sparsely bolt protected 5.11 pitch, I certainly wouldn't argue with the term "contrived".

 

Congratulations, I think that's the first time anyone has covered that ground in 15 years. Some lichen since I somewhat scrubbed it back then is not surprising.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×