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Posted

i talked to brooke sandahl at metolius. it's called der sportsmen, and it's rated 12a. he highly recommended it, and is sending me a topo. ill post up when it arrives.

Posted
i talked to brooke sandahl at metolius. it's called der sportsmen, and it's rated 12a. he highly recommended it, and is sending me a topo. ill post up when it arrives.

 

Ask your buddy Brooke if he rap-bolted the thing.

If he did, boycott it.

And he apparently did, quoting here a post from Dane in 2004 quoting Brooke:

 

"From Brooke, "This route is a bold traditional undertaking and with climbing up to 5.12b fairly technical and serious (some pitchs would probably be R rated). You will need a double set of cams to #9, triples on small units, a large selection of brass nuts, and stoppers. In these final three (short) pitches (crossing over to the south face and then back again to the west face), we placed 1 protection bolt and two stations (added on edit: these 5 bolts were done on rappel as Burbon originally impied) Our route takes the extreme south crack of the west face of the headwall (missing the whole main headwall) and ends in a wild foot & back chimney - belaying under the large visor which juts out over the west face. We did not see any evidence of rap bolting up the main headwall."

 

Who cares whether the rap-bolting was committed on the headwall or anywhere else in the Enchantments/Wilderness area...the rotten act was committed.

 

Read the whole volatile discussion of the topic here:

 

Prussik Peak Rap-Bolting

 

You don't want to "climb" from the bottom up? Go home. Maybe wind-surfing will suit you better.

 

It's a pathetic example and now others will have to clean up the mess and even worse, some will find it acceptable and imitate it.

 

Furthermore, let's not contribute to the pollution of the mountains by naming routes after corporate sponsors, e.g., "Team Metolius Route". At least the corn-dogs who raped the thing had the decency to call it "Der Sportsmann", after a venerable establishment in nearby Leavenworth.

Posted

ok Raindawg you've said your piece. i'm leaving your post, but the the OP was looking for route information, not your opinion about the route, in which you are quoting from 3rd hand information. so that is it, you've made your statement and it will remain. if you have anything further to say about your opinion, say it in the rock climbing forum. this forum is for route information, not ethics debates. i'll remove your posts if they aren't on topic to the OPs request.

 

thanks!

Posted

whoa!

 

it sucks they rap-bolted it. brooks not my buddy, all i knew of the face was a pic from an old metolius catalog.

 

it looks so good, steep and hard, with impeccable rock, and amazing position.

 

defenitly a lame ass name.

 

hopefully you've climbed it, to warrant such a rabid opinion.

 

 

 

 

Posted

its a cool place. the face, like the SB route, seems to put you in a cool position on the rock at the top of the route...but the climbing is much more difficult. then again, i've only observed some of territory from the beckey route.

 

somebody go get on it and let us know what you think! i would if i climbed .12x

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