[TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face 6/22/2008

[NoahT]

Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face

 

Date: 6/22/2008

 

Trip Report:

We just had to echo the cry that this route is one of the best of its kind!!! Steep and clean, aesthetic line, inspiring locale, great climbing at the grade, not terribly committing, super quick descent...its got a lot going for it.

 

We did it Sunday from the car, and had one of those days where everything just seemed to go according to plan. Sometimes kinda rare, and so pleasant when you get it. I can't titillate with any pictures, and there are already enough great trip reports from which to gather your beta...

 

... but a couple notables:

--left the car at 4:30am, back at 7:30pm, 7+ hours on route

--the base is still 1.5-2 hours from the lake, farther (more elevation gain) than we were picturing, initially

--Just a couple of easy snow patches around the lake, and then once you hit the upper basin below the face--lightweight shoes are plenty

--you're gonna come down slopes on the right so leave you big packs lower in the basin

--like many, you may start half a pitch lower than the first .10 crack--we probably just needed to push a little higher up the gully before heading right; who cares, just blast. the first 4p's are straight forward and can be done in two.

--the .10 is perfect locks and two orange tcu's puts you up and out; belay above the .7 chimney

--the .9 has fun stemming and a thin but laid-back seam; run your 60m out to the last big tree below the corner/roof

--the corner is dry right now, ALL the way up--a pumpy lead--but all there. Exactly like they say, solid .10 BUT for the length; we were surprised to find fingers and thin hands for most of it, with only the occasional jam here and there

--Take your #4 if only for the roof traverse (though we used it 2-3 other times); it's the best piece before the crack pinches down, and you make a big reach

--Enjoy the thin, opening up to perfect hands, on the next .9; don't bother with aiders for the little roof, just yard on gear and stand in a sling or two

--Some freak rope drag situation meant the second had to tibloc through the chimney--with the pack, it would have been ugly anyway; haul it, dangle it, or leave it at the base, cause it will just NOT fit

--make a quick 25m rappel from slung horn/boulder down and south from top; puts you in a sandy gully, one over from the one you will descend

--right now, the first half of descent is sandy, then plunge step the soft snow back to the packs; descent took 20 minutes (woah!)

--Surprisingly enough, there was another party camped up there to do the route--get an early start, wear your slippers, and you just might be able to sneak by them

 

 

Great route!

 

Cheers,

 

Noah

 

 

Gear Notes:

double tcus through #3 BD, one #4

 

Approach Notes:

4 hours from car

[Sol]

Nice!

 

Was the roof traverse fully dry? How about the roof on the next pitch (free crux)? Thanks.

[Lowlander]

Hey Noah, Nice chatting with you guys on route. While you may not have any photos of you guys climbing, I took two of you on route.

 

 

 

[pink]

what a sweet looking corner

[NoahT]

Hey lowlander, likewise, it was nice having some company--and thanks for the pics. What a sweet pitch...

 

There was one section of wetness on the traverse, but not a show stopper. No free crux on the A1...the previous two p's pretty much had us redlined.

 

Meant to mention it was t-shirt weather when we topped out in the sun, but the shady face had us in our puffy's most of the time. Dress warm.

 

Cheers...

[DirtyHarry]

Nice work. I'm suprised it was so dry. I've been on it later in the year on dryer years and its been wet.

[Blake]

Don't believe the hype, top 15' of corner, and most of the roof traverse are seeping and considerably slimey. All else was dry.