Class or just do it

[acarp]

I've been doing some reading and posting on other forums, and I thought I would see what you guys say...

 

I'm looking to take an Alpine I class with American Alpine Institute. Some seem to think that they are a great way to learn a lot of the basics since your main goal isn't to bag a peak. Others think that they are a waste of money (~$1100) and I'd be better off finding some partners who are willing to teach me the ropes while climbing with them. What do you guys think? How open is the Alpine community? I got started in rock climbing about 7-8 years ago by just "finding some partners," but living in Virginia, there aren't too many people that into Alpine. I'm looking to take this class so I can "try it out" to see if it will really interest me as much as I think it will and to start learning about it. I hope to do this sometime in August. Anyone up for taking out a newbie for several days or is taking a class really the best way to go?

 

 

[Bug]

If you can find someone here, ask some others via PM about them. You want to make sure you aren't hooking up with someone who leads you to your death.

I would answer your PM. Others may volunteer.

I am booked for the summer with newbies.

 

[DPS]

I have climbed with a number of partners who got their start by taking a course with AAI. They all felt it was very worthwhile and came away with solid skills. I think since you live in VA, it would be a good way to get introduced to alpine climbing.

[mattp]

My impression is that AAI is an excellent outfit and their course a good one. However, you CAN simply go out and climb - even relatively big mountains - with partners who may or may not be much more experienced than yourself. Many good climbers have learned this way and my reading of accident journals over the last 35 years suggests these people have no higher an accident rate -- and maybe even less -- than anybody else.

 

I have not compiled statistics, but it seems to me I read about a lot of accidents associated with group climbs and relatively experienced climbers who are trying to push their limits.

 

There are plenty of peaks around Washington that you could safely climb as a relative novice, a lot can be learned from a book, and you can take one day with a guide here and there.

 

You may find it easier to hook up with more experienced climbers after you have built a resume on easier peaks. If unguided and untrained you would, of course, want to choose your climbs carefully and if you are the cautious sort start with peaks that have non technical descents, and very short bits of technical climbing, with minimal messy gullies or rotten rock would be a good start. (I realize this eliminates lots of Washington standards.)

[Jud]

I took the same type of course with a local (to me, in Vancouver, BC) outfit called Canada West Mountain School. More important than the actual school, the guide who taught the course was simply fantastic --extremely knowledgeable, fantastic teacher (being a good teacher is a very rare skill), and nice guy with whom I've kept in touch. My impression is that people with professional guides training are extremely valuable to learn from --they tend to have many years of experience to share and are totally enthusiastic about their craft. We spent six very solid 10-12 hour days learning technical alpine skills, followed by a one-day summit attempt. I think you'd be hard-pressed to get that kind of "instruction" by just climbing with some people, especially in so short a time.

 

As for me, since taking the course, I feel I have a fairly solid appreciation of alpine hazards (well maybe not solid , basic climbing techniques, crevasse rescue and related, terrain and navigation, etc. --stuff that would've take me a LOT longer to learn otherwise. With the course as a base, I've since been doing tons of reading (and practice) to build my skills --e.g., "Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher", written by two former AAI guides, seems a great follow up book after taking a basic one-week alpine climbing course --it take things to the next level in many areas. In short, though relatively expensive, you'll probably learn a ton from a good course and guide.

 

Then you can post tons of questions here! :D