latest hood conditions?

[trumpetsailor]

I climbed/skied Wy'east Saturday - the approach from Meadows was cake. Climbing conditions on the face were great.

[Sanchez]

So you started at the Meadows parking lot? I guess this time of year that is the way to go, I was in winter mode and was suprised to see so much bare dirt on the west facing slopes below the Steel Cliffs. In other words, DAMMIT!!! I knew it!!!

I was trying to justify my decision to bag out on WyEast the whole weekend, guess I have no excuse.

[billbob]

Dropped into a crevasse at the bottom of Leuthold Sun AM, didn't look like much more than a little crack until... I hate it when that happens. Glad to have the incredibly strong and talented Ivan on the rope!

[esugi]

Anybody been up or know of the conditions on Reid Headwall?

With so much snow this winter, would this route still be in?

[billbob]

Was looking great last weekend. Traversed underneath en route to the Leuthold, seemed to be much less ice & rock coming down the Reid HW. Get up there early !

[Jimmy James]

Hey folks--

I'm thinking of climbing Leuthold this coming Thurs-Fri. I know it's super late season, but figured the route might still be in considering the great snowpack we have this year. Anyone know if it's still feasable this time of year, and if so, what's a good time to be entering the couloir itself?

Thanks!

[ivan]

Hey folks--

I'm thinking of climbing Leuthold this coming Thurs-Fri. I know it's super late season, but figured the route might still be in considering the great snowpack we have this year. Anyone know if it's still feasable this time of year, and if so, what's a good time to be entering the couloir itself?

Thanks!

not so early that it's too dark to make certain you're in the right place but not so light that everything but the kitchen sink's comign down on top of you

[matopis]

we did luthold's on sunday. the route was still reasonably solid. ice was coming down constantly, but no rocks! The snow was consolidated and we didn't find any ice. the crevasses were easy to negotiate. the 'shrund on reid's was open wall to wall - see the pic.

 

above the hourglass, looking down on the sunshine

 

 

we were shocked at the crowds coming up the south. we were alone on the luthold's though 3 others climbed it a few hours behind us.

 

 

reid's glacier

 

[sparverius]

nice pics Matt. Getting off route early on and hitting a dead-end rotten rock wall on Yocums was the most thrilling part of the climb. No photos of your donation to the bergshrund on the reid? It will probably end up in PDX's drinking supply in 2,000 years.

[ptownclimber]

How about the Sunshine route...anyone know what condition it's in?

[ptownclimber]

How about the sunshine route...anyone know what condition it's in?

[Kerryob]

I summited via the normal southside route on 7/12. Conditions were very warm so I'm glad we left at Midnight. Got to the top at 6:30am. Good snow most of the way up with only a couple patches of scree below crater rock. Was my first time on the mountain so I really lucked out with such good weather. Could see forever from up top.

[Maine-iac]

Currently my crampons are out on loan, will they still be needed? Or is a lot of the snow melted out, such that I just need scree protection.

[dwillym]

I would definitely bring crampons, especially from the Hogsback to the summit & back.

 

I'm going to join the circus this weekend on the s. side...was anybody up there this week with some info on the pearly gates or old chute? This thread has some reports on those routes but from a month or so ago...I'd like to know how steep the gates are at this point. thanks.

[dwillym]

Nevermind! I was up there Friday 7.19 so here's my own report on conditions:

 

Conditions were stellar - a near-full moon, 100% clear skies, good temps, hard snowpack, and no rockfall (we did hear some on the steel cliffs, but nothing in an area that mattered for s.side climb). The bergschrund is huge and everybody is taking a left to go up the old chute, but you can also drop down the side of the hogsback, over a dry patch, and then up. Back in May we did the old chute and it put us closer to the summit - now you top out on a knife-edge ridge a bit farther west (it's easy but very narrow for a bit).

 

It really was a spectacular climb. We fully expected crappy snow and definite rockfall, but the temps must have been just right. This was my third time up and it was by far the most beautiful trip.

 

[just used the basics: crampons, axe, helmet]