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Posted

full TR: http://zclipped.com/?p=15

 

This beta photo should be about as useful as the Selected Climbs II topo was for us.

CIMG4764.JPG

 

Colt45 and I climbed the South Face on Sunday. After the obvious short crack from Nelson's photo, we had a nearly impossible time reconciling any features from the topo or the description. In particular, we never saw the invisible flake with 50 of chimneying. We ultimately climbed what seemed to be an obvious easy weakness on the face, passing a well used rap anchor. Where does the correct line go?

 

Our line:

topo.jpg

 

 

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Posted

you're talking about a shortish mellow route on the Mole or something harder? i did the SW face a few years ago, starting maybe 50 feet below a chockstone, traversing left on easy cracks to the top of a flake that you drop behind and down-chimney for like 15 feet, then a short 5.7 lieback before it backs off to low 5th

Posted
you went right after the short crack? Both CAG and Nelson say to go left.

I can't find my pics but I think we went up past your peak to the right of your eventual line.

Posted
I can't find my pics but I think we went up past your peak to the right of your eventual line.

Is this the way you went? The horn in the foreground broke off in my hand, and the climbing was pretty steep (5.10ish)

 

Also can anyone identify these routes:

Route 1 and Route 2.

 

Both are located to the left of the south face route. Based on Beckey it looks like the right-facing dihedral is supposed to be 5.10+ and the left-facing one is 5.8, but it sure looks harder than 5.8 (or maybe the book said 5.9, I don't have it with me at the moment).

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