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Posted

I am headed into the cascades for the summer to Alpine and crag climb. I have partners here and there of varying skill levels for different periods of time. I have some experience with Alpine routes but would appreciate any BETA about Prusik and Stuart routes to start. I comfortably lead up to easy 5.9 trad. I welcome any others with equal to more experience to join me:)

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Posted

get nelson's select guide or do a tr search here for those peaks

 

prusik's west ridge is a good starter alpine crag climb

 

stuarts west ridge is a step up from that

Posted

Mt Stuart is HUGE, be prepared for a huge day or days…… West ridge is mellow with tons of exposure on the last 400 feet. North ridge is a much bigger undertaking……Lots of exposure. You walk off Mt. Stuart

 

Pursik is a nice climb but a butt kick of an approach. If you climb the standard south facing route….bring a #5. We placed it on every pitch. 5 rappels with one 60m rope. You can climb the standard south facing route in 4 pitches if you stretch your belays out.

 

Posted

The trip report index has tons of beta on these peaks. It's probably better for you to figure it out on your own than listen to all of us argue about which beta is right/wrong.

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