What is an Off-Set cam?

[BDEL]

I'm looking into buying a new set of cams, I just want to know what the difference is between offsets and regular cams. Thanks!

[willstrickland]

On offsets (also called hybrids by some manufacturers) the pair of cam lobes on one side of the cam are a size larger than the pair of lobes on the other side. This asymmetrical arrangement allows the offsets to fit better into cracks that flare. A typical situation is a piton scar where the back of the crack is radically smaller than the front.

 

 

They are somewhat specialized and IMO, not as useful for the building blocks/base of your rack as normal cams. I have some offset aliens that are a godsend on flaring pin scars, but I use them almost exclusively for aid, rarely taking them on free climbs unless I expect flaring placements, and then they are still a just a supplement to my regular cams.

 

Offset nuts, on the other hand, I find extremely useful when free climbing, especially in the larger (aluminum) sizes and in all kinds of rock.

[BDEL]

Thanks!

[Hendershot]

The Trango Max Cams are crap. Metolius's small Super Cam has the range about equivilant to a BD #1 & 2 and is the most useful asym cam IMO.

[JosephH]

One point of clarification - the Max Cam is a truly asymmetric cam relative to possessing a varying cam angle. The Super Cam has the outward appearance of asymmetry, but in reality it is a symmetric cam from the the perspective of having a constant cam angle and it operates no differently than an old original, solid stem friend in that respect.

[catbirdseat]

The Trango Max Cams are crap. Metolius's small Super Cam has the range about equivilant to a BD #1 & 2 and is the most useful asym cam IMO.

I used to think that about my #2 Max Cam, but now that I've gotten used to it, I rather like it. It fits flares very nicely and covers most of the range of the the red and yellow Camalots. Almost as small as the red, but not quite. Almost as large as the yellow, but not quite.

 

I have one offset Friend where the larger lobes are #3 sized. It gets used quite a lot in flares at Joshua Tree, oftentimes in belay anchors at the top of climbs where the cracks are really badly flared.

Edited April 22, 2008 by catbirdseat

[Rad]

I've never used an offset cam, but I have certainly placed regular cams in positions where one or two of the lobes are more expanded or contracted than the others. I suspect most trad climbers here have as well. This might be near a divot, irregularity, or a protruding crystal. I don't believe this compromises the strength of the unit, provided the lobes are not tipped out or over-cammed.

 

One thing I make sure is that the piece is set reasonably well so that it is oriented properly for a fall and won't walk anywhere easily as I climb past it. A walk to a more narrow fissure could make it very hard to clean, and a walk to a wider part could make it unsafe.

 

It sounds like offsets do have uses, but I've done just fine without one for years. I'd suggest making sure you have at least a complete set of regular cams first.

[tradhead]

In certain situations, offset cams can be godsends. A few years ago, I whipped off of the crux of the last pitch of the regular route on Careno Crag onto the only cam that I had that fit - a green alien. I knew it was a marginal placement before I fell, because only two lobes were well engaged. The cam caught me, but was only touching the rock on those two lobes after the fall. I jumped through the crux after that, because I wanted to get off the half-engaged cam! I later heard a story about someone taking a fourty footer when the former fixed pin protecting this move pulled.

 

Now I have a few offset aliens and use them all the time. Whenever there's a decent angle scar or some weird flared flake, I'm stoked to have an option. Usually I don't have any other gear that will work when I bust them out.

 

I don't own any offset nuts, though. Those might be a better choice for the weight and cost. I plan to take a look at them now that they're back in production.