[TR] North Joffre Creek - the ice doesn't quit... 4/5/2008

[Don_Serl]

Trip: North Joffre Creek - the ice doesn't quit...

 

Date: 4/5/2008

 

Trip Report:

The ice in NJC doesn't know it's spring! After success on Fromage Suisse with GR on 03/23 (see earlier TR in this forum), we decided to return the following weekend. Ade and Robert kept us company. Again, the ski-in was about 2hrs, and both the snow conditions and weather were good. Graham and I headed up onto Schneidelwurz, which was really attractive but which we hadn't had time to climb the previous weekend, while Ade and Robert set off up Fromage Suisse. Our climb turned out to be 2 pitches, 1st 45m Gr3, then 58m again Gr3. The 'bolder' line would include about 20m of Gr 4 to start p2, but it was quite wet, so we went 'the mountaineer's way'.

 

Graham starting p2 on Schneidelwurz

 

 

 

Ade and Robert got up FS, and as with us the previous weekend they found the ice a bit on the sketchy/platey side in places, and the climbing at the hard end of Grade 4.

 

Well, despite pretty torched heels, I was still super-keen to keep climbing ice - I've NEVER done an ice route in April, much less out here on the Coast! S-o-o-o-o, turned out Gord Betenia and Magdalena Rucker (Betenia) were also very keen, and we did the early drive on Sat Apr 5. There was no change for the ski-in, altho the weather was warmer than before and pretty unsettled. There was a fine looking pillar of blue ice in the centre of the broad "Gee Whiz" flow which was our objective.

 

Gord approaching Gee Whiz

 

 

 

The ice had obviously seen the sun over the previous week, cuz while it was basically sound, the outer inch or two was kinda flakey and insubstantial. That said, the placements were bomber, and the smoothness of the surface was more reminiscent of seracs than waterfalls. Did I mention that Gord likes to run it out when conditions are good?

 

 

There was a big horizontal crack at about 35m, then the angle laid back to a belay at 50m. I guess Gr3 is about right...

 

Once we'd followed, we left the belay in and TR'ed a while on the steeper pillar ot the left of the line we'd climbed. The skies dumped snow from time to time, the face above dumped spindrift avvies now and again, the surrounding views came and went. Did I mention this was another fine day on the ice?

 

Magdalena on the steeper line:

 

 

 

 

Will it ever end???

 

Cheers,

 

 

[Robert Howell]

Damn. I can't wait to get up there. Thanks for the great pictures.

[northvanclimber]

wow, great job! how long do you figure the approach would be using snowshoes???

[PaulB]

how long do you figure the approach would be using snowshoes???

Going in, about the same... 2 hours.

 

Coming out, you're looking at another 2 hours, while skiers could be back at the car in less than an hour depending on snow conditions.

 

 

[gertlush]

You're psyching us up just as the ice is falling down!

[G-spotter]

more stoke

 

Free Tibet new BK 9-pitch ice line in NJC.

[Don_Serl]

You're psyching us up just as the ice is falling down!

 

actually, while I didn't go out there AGAIN last weekend (i DO occasionally have to deal with 'home' stuff...), i'd reckon the ice is not yet falling down. just watch the whistler forecast:

http://www.whistlerblackcomb.com/weather/forecast/index.htm

daytime freezing levels have been valley bottom to 800m or so for the past 2 weeks. just a brief period of warmth last saturday (2000m). now at 1400m - 1600m daytime (much colder overnite) for tues/weds/thurs, then forecast to drop again. and it has not been very sunny. remarkably, i think there'd be no problem at all with the ice surviving as long as these cool cloudy conditions last - how about local ice in MAY?!?! i may give it a try, just for the laugh!

certainly seems like everyone has 'hung up the tools', tho...

is it the girls in the sport tops on the beach walkways?

cheers,