1/2 size up for ice?

[Captain Crunch]

I've been shopping for new boots for the following use. 30% approch, 30% rock, 30% glacier, 10% ice. I am struggling to decide between two sizes. A size 42 seems to be the best fit. My toes just barely kiss the end when I simulate a steep decent. However when I really kick the boot into the ground my toes solidly hit the end. I wouldn't normaly be concerned about this except for front pointing for ice climbing. Now I've never actually climbed ice so I'm using a bit of imagination here to simulate the impact. When I go up to a 42.5 I start to get a bit of heal lift. Probably not a critical amount.

 

Is it normal to need an extra 1/2 size up in boots used for front point ice climbing? It seems wrong to me, but I certainly don't want mashed toes.

[pup_on_the_mountain]

The short answer to your question is to get boots that fit you best. Try both sizes (42 and 42.5) in a few different brands before getting one.

 

My street shoe size is 42. I have a pair of La Sportiva Glaciers in size 42, and have used it on approaches, glaciers, snow, and some ice (mainly in the mountains). I like the fairly snug fit on the toes when going uphill, but they do bash against the toe box when going downhill. I need to stop now and then to re-tie the shoes tighter when going down. For the limited alpine ice I climbed with them, it was not bad on the toes.

 

I also have a pair of Koflachs in size 9, which are on the loose side for that size. These have a roomier toe box than the Glaciers, and also stay tied in tight much longer. I have no issues with toes getting banged up on the downhill. I climb water ice in them, and when it gets near vertical, the heel becomes loose and causes problems. No issues with toe-banging though.

 

Recently, I bought a pair of La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX boots, in size 42.5, and they seem to be the best overall fit for me. This model is designed to be narrow at the heels, and hence holds them fixed pretty nicely. Works great on vertical ice. I've not used them on approach trails yet, but they fit me so well that I think they should be fine on trail as well.

 

My first pair of boots were the old-style Scarpa Freneys in size 42. Their toe-boxes are quite narrow compared to the La Sportivas or Koflachs. In just one day of ice climbing, I screwed up both my toenails.

[Farrgo]

The short answer to your question is to get boots that fit you best.

 

Ya, second that one. The distribution of use (10% ice) makes me think that ice climbing isn't very important. So it seems like you'd be better served by getting a boot that approaches and does the glacier thing well. I think its one of those situations where you can get something that has multiple function but it usually sucks at both, like the boat car.

[Hendershot]

Have you tried different superfeet inserts? Depending on the boot last, the high volume green one that they recommend may not be the best.

 

I wore some Phantom lites around my apartment for 2 weeks, trying various sock/superfeet combos and ended up returning them because I couldn't deal with the heel lift.

 

My 2 cents, heel lift is the worst. Go with a 42, try a thinner sock, move faster to stay warm and tighten the laces closer to your toe.

[Dane]

Guess I missed it. I have mtn boots (which will cover the full range of alpine/ice climbing) and I have mountaineering boots that will never see ice climbing but will see a pair of lwt crampons for glacier slogs.

 

I fit them all the same. Doesn't matter if the boot is for WI5, 5.10 rock, M6 or a Rainier slog. The most important thing for me about fitting a pair of boots is comfort walking in and out of the climbs. Nothing that will make a trip more unpleasant than too short of boot. Heel lift can be fixed but better yet find a pair of boot that will be long enough to keep you toe off the front and locks the heel down.

 

Since you don't need a stiff technical boot, there are lots of options out there for you to choose from. Try a bunch of them on.

[bonathanjarrett]

In reality you shouldn't be slamming your foot into the ice anyways. It is easier, more efficient, and just as effective to keep the points sharp, kick gently, and search for places where you can in fact just place your foot. If the boot is comfortable for you to descend a steep slope without your toes being smashed you are fine. If the boot is too big, you end up getting heel lift, and it just feels sloppy and makes your footwork sloppy as well.