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[TR] CND Ice - The typical trade routes 1/25/2008

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Trip: CND Ice - The typical trade routes


Date: 1/25/2008


Trip Report:

I was lucky enough to get a couple of trips in to Banff/Lake Lousie area this winter. Nothing earth shattereing climbed, just a couple of the local trade routes. Avi conditions have been terrible for the most part and kept us off some routes we wanted to do on boith trips. But isn't that part of ice?


First trip up was with my long term (like almost 30 years now!) climbing partner. While he has kept up I haven't. This is the second time he has dragged me off the couch and back into the fray. The first time was years ago, to do the second ascent of some heinious, offwidth, 4 pitch 5.11. Fun, but another story. This time for such fun things as the pillar on Louise and Weeping Wall center. Never mind that I haven't been ice climbing in years and tore my right bicep off last spring. I owe you a big "thanks" Dave...I think :)


The first week was defined by the typical -30C temps we had every day. Pleasant really and a nice "welcome back to Canada".


Below the big boys and gun for the pillar on the 2nd pitch of Weeeping Wall.




On my lead of course I bail to the left...and get a dirty look from Dave.




A fun trip with some good climbing every day. We finishing with Gilbralter on the way home. Nice climb this time because it was cold enough to actually finish on top of the wall where the spring originates. No pics but a must do climb if you are in the area. (Canal Flats)


Between the two trips I got in some local ice with Jeff from CClimbers. Interesting stuff, screws were useless but tied off brush seemed reasonable. At least as hard as anything we did in Canada this winter. Cold, wet fun right up till we got back to the truck and found the windows and gear missing. Coldest I have been all winter was driving home with no glass on the driver's side. Who is worse your insurance agent of the theives? BASTARDS!


Jeff after the first steep section.




and a second smaller step before the upper section...





The second trip north I did with Eiji from CClimbers. If you saw his last trip report he had mentioned the fact that they didn't get as much mileage as they would have liked. We tried to remedy that on this trip. We figured about 1500m of climbing in 3 and 1/2 days so we did OK this trip.


60F in Calagary when we landed. 50F in Banfff and raining. Just barely freezing at Lake Lousie made conditions a bit trying. So we started doing what we could as the sun went down and temps dropped. Made it interesting and fun.


Eiji on the sharp end right out of the car.




And again 2 minutes later




Starting late on Snivelling in what would be a good day....Sniveling and Weeping Wall. In the dark at the top of the wall, 120m of trail breaking in chest deep snow on steep terrain was a pain and a little scary until we got back into the trees.




A mental crux... well done.




A little time out to crank some mixed at Haffner




And then back @ night climbing to finish up the trip.








Gear Notes:

I first did these climbs back in the '70s. They are all over rated today with modern gear :)


Two links that give a more detailed commentary:






Approach Notes:

You kidding me? I climb in Canada just so I don't have to walk.

Edited by Dane

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Great to read your TR, and yes, the avy conditions have historically had the same effect on my trips. If I have to go to the Weeping or Haffner one more time....:laf:


Looks like you had fun. Looking forward to going there one last time myself in a week or so.




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Thanks for posting Dane. I am too lazy and frankly too busy in the evening to post. Good job.


When are we going out again? Maybe some drytooling here locally?


When I get pics from my Ouray trip, I'll do a TR.

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