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estimatedprophet

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I'll be in Joshua Tree for a few days after Christmas, camping/traveling with a photographer friend who does not climb. I'd love to be able to hook up with someone for a day or two to do some trad routes up to 5.9 or sport routes. Would hate to have to be in JT and not get in any climbing...

 

Just in case you dont get a partner J Tree is famous for its bouldering. If you are willing.....you will climb your butt off.

 

Make sure and go try the Gunsmoke Traverse.......have a great time over the holidays......

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Must do from .7-10a?

 

5.7/5.7+:

Mr. Misty Kiss

Frosty Cone

Leap Year Flake

White Lightning

Lazy Day

Double Cross

Double Dogleg

Mental Physics

Walk on the Wild Side

Skinny Dip

Overhang Bypass

Dolphin

Stichter Quits

 

5.8

The Flake (one of my three favorite routes here, do it in a single pitch)

Sail Away

Cake Walk

Dappled Mare

Hands Off

The Flue

Gem

 

5.9

Overseer

Super Roof

The Damper

North Overhang

Sexy Grandma

Sphincter Quits

Ace of Spades

Popular Mechanics

Rock Candy

Dummy's Delight

Alice in Wonderjam

Loose Lady

Colorado Crack

 

.10a

Heart and Soul

Taxman

Bird of Fire

Bird on a Wire

Dos Chi Chis

Illusion Dweller

Watanobe Wall

Exorcist

Tossed Green

Right Baskerville

Head over Heals

Ball Bearing

Chalk Up Another One

Championship Wrestling

Good Bad & Ugly

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there is quite a good listing here:

http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/goodleadsguest.htm

 

I'm going down there shortly, but have not been for 15 years so my memory is fuzzy. Routes I can't forget are

north overhang 5.9 on intersection rock

sail away 5.8

popes crack 5.9

bird on a wire - multi pitch

illusion dweller 5.10

run for your life (bolts) 10ish

ebgb's (bolts) 10ish

 

numerous mellow bolted routes at Echo rock

 

I'll post a TR on my return, hope to take lots of pictures.

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Just curious if any of you J-tree vets would be willing to share your "must do" J-tree routes....5.7 - 5.9/10a preferably. I've got the Wingers book which is good, but limited in scope.

 

 

Eric....that is a tough question. There are over 4000 routes there and so many are great and do not have stars on them. Try and camp in Hidden Valley…..I know it’s the popular place but for a reason. You can literally not drive your car for a week. Just walk to hundreds of great climbs. Make sure you climb in Echo rock area. Climb “touch and go” 5.9. Super great easy climb for the grade.

 

 

 

Another classic is “Walk on the wild side” 5.7 4 star climb on Saddle Mt. It might be 5.8 now. Slab climbing at its best. A complete must do.

 

 

The climb to do is the crack system to the right of the climber. This climb is 20 feet from the camping and is 5.7 and a great introduction to J tree climbing. I forget the name.

IMG_0550.JPG

 

 

This is a picture of me on "Touch n Go" a must do IMO.

IMG_0612.JPG

 

This climb is a 4 star classic rated 10.c. Felt more like 11.a if you ask me.

IMG_0667.JPG

 

"Fist a cuffs" 10.b, for the wide crack lovers.

IMG_0728.JPG

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The 5.7 crack in the pic is Toe Jam. Mediocre, but right in campground and sees a ton of traffic. Super polished in the finishing crack.

 

The 10c is Clean and Jerk, a definite sandbag if you're under 5'10, and a bit tough for the grade even if you can easily make the long crux reach at the bottom.

 

For Fisticuffs, just wear your approach shoes, it will actually make the climbing easier.

 

But kevbone, the real question is: Why are you aiding those cracks? Or did you have a boxing match before going cragging?

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The 5.7 crack in the pic is Toe Jam. Mediocre, but right in campground and sees a ton of traffic. Super polished in the finishing crack.

 

The 10c is Clean and Jerk, a definite sandbag if you're under 5'10, and a bit tough for the grade even if you can easily make the long crux reach at the bottom.

 

For Fisticuffs, just wear your approach shoes, it will actually make the climbing easier.

 

But kevbone, the real question is: Why are you aiding those cracks? Or did you have a boxing match before going cragging?

 

 

Toe Jam and Clean and Jerk, that’s it. Thanks…..my memory is failing.

 

Boxing? Aiding? Confused.

 

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The 5.7 crack in the pic is Toe Jam. Mediocre, but right in campground and sees a ton of traffic. Super polished in the finishing crack.

 

The 10c is Clean and Jerk, a definite sandbag if you're under 5'10, and a bit tough for the grade even if you can easily make the long crux reach at the bottom.

 

For Fisticuffs, just wear your approach shoes, it will actually make the climbing easier.

 

But kevbone, the real question is: Why are you aiding those cracks? Or did you have a boxing match before going cragging?

 

 

Toe Jam and Clean and Jerk, that’s it. Thanks…..my memory is failing.

 

Boxing? Aiding? Confused.

 

tape is aid

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