estimatedprophet Posted December 10, 2007 Posted December 10, 2007 I'll be in Joshua Tree for a few days after Christmas, camping/traveling with a photographer friend who does not climb. I'd love to be able to hook up with someone for a day or two to do some trad routes up to 5.9 or sport routes. Would hate to have to be in JT and not get in any climbing... Quote
kevbone Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 estimatedprophet said: I'll be in Joshua Tree for a few days after Christmas, camping/traveling with a photographer friend who does not climb. I'd love to be able to hook up with someone for a day or two to do some trad routes up to 5.9 or sport routes. Would hate to have to be in JT and not get in any climbing... Just in case you dont get a partner J Tree is famous for its bouldering. If you are willing.....you will climb your butt off. Make sure and go try the Gunsmoke Traverse.......have a great time over the holidays...... Quote
ericb Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 Just curious if any of you J-tree vets would be willing to share your "must do" J-tree routes....5.7 - 5.9/10a preferably. I've got the Wingers book which is good, but limited in scope. Quote
willstrickland Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 Must do from .7-10a? 5.7/5.7+: Mr. Misty Kiss Frosty Cone Leap Year Flake White Lightning Lazy Day Double Cross Double Dogleg Mental Physics Walk on the Wild Side Skinny Dip Overhang Bypass Dolphin Stichter Quits 5.8 The Flake (one of my three favorite routes here, do it in a single pitch) Sail Away Cake Walk Dappled Mare Hands Off The Flue Gem 5.9 Overseer Super Roof The Damper North Overhang Sexy Grandma Sphincter Quits Ace of Spades Popular Mechanics Rock Candy Dummy's Delight Alice in Wonderjam Loose Lady Colorado Crack .10a Heart and Soul Taxman Bird of Fire Bird on a Wire Dos Chi Chis Illusion Dweller Watanobe Wall Exorcist Tossed Green Right Baskerville Head over Heals Ball Bearing Chalk Up Another One Championship Wrestling Good Bad & Ugly Quote
markwebster Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 there is quite a good listing here: http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/goodleadsguest.htm I'm going down there shortly, but have not been for 15 years so my memory is fuzzy. Routes I can't forget are north overhang 5.9 on intersection rock sail away 5.8 popes crack 5.9 bird on a wire - multi pitch illusion dweller 5.10 run for your life (bolts) 10ish ebgb's (bolts) 10ish numerous mellow bolted routes at Echo rock I'll post a TR on my return, hope to take lots of pictures. Quote
kevbone Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 ericb said: Just curious if any of you J-tree vets would be willing to share your "must do" J-tree routes....5.7 - 5.9/10a preferably. I've got the Wingers book which is good, but limited in scope. Eric....that is a tough question. There are over 4000 routes there and so many are great and do not have stars on them. Try and camp in Hidden Valley…..I know it’s the popular place but for a reason. You can literally not drive your car for a week. Just walk to hundreds of great climbs. Make sure you climb in Echo rock area. Climb “touch and go” 5.9. Super great easy climb for the grade. Another classic is “Walk on the wild side” 5.7 4 star climb on Saddle Mt. It might be 5.8 now. Slab climbing at its best. A complete must do. The climb to do is the crack system to the right of the climber. This climb is 20 feet from the camping and is 5.7 and a great introduction to J tree climbing. I forget the name. This is a picture of me on "Touch n Go" a must do IMO. This climb is a 4 star classic rated 10.c. Felt more like 11.a if you ask me. "Fist a cuffs" 10.b, for the wide crack lovers. Quote
willstrickland Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 The 5.7 crack in the pic is Toe Jam. Mediocre, but right in campground and sees a ton of traffic. Super polished in the finishing crack. The 10c is Clean and Jerk, a definite sandbag if you're under 5'10, and a bit tough for the grade even if you can easily make the long crux reach at the bottom. For Fisticuffs, just wear your approach shoes, it will actually make the climbing easier. But kevbone, the real question is: Why are you aiding those cracks? Or did you have a boxing match before going cragging? Quote
kevbone Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 willstrickland said: The 5.7 crack in the pic is Toe Jam. Mediocre, but right in campground and sees a ton of traffic. Super polished in the finishing crack. The 10c is Clean and Jerk, a definite sandbag if you're under 5'10, and a bit tough for the grade even if you can easily make the long crux reach at the bottom. For Fisticuffs, just wear your approach shoes, it will actually make the climbing easier. But kevbone, the real question is: Why are you aiding those cracks? Or did you have a boxing match before going cragging? Toe Jam and Clean and Jerk, that’s it. Thanks…..my memory is failing. Boxing? Aiding? Confused. Quote
ericb Posted December 11, 2007 Posted December 11, 2007 kevbone said: willstrickland said: The 5.7 crack in the pic is Toe Jam. Mediocre, but right in campground and sees a ton of traffic. Super polished in the finishing crack. The 10c is Clean and Jerk, a definite sandbag if you're under 5'10, and a bit tough for the grade even if you can easily make the long crux reach at the bottom. For Fisticuffs, just wear your approach shoes, it will actually make the climbing easier. But kevbone, the real question is: Why are you aiding those cracks? Or did you have a boxing match before going cragging? Toe Jam and Clean and Jerk, that’s it. Thanks…..my memory is failing. Boxing? Aiding? Confused. tape is aid Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted December 12, 2007 Posted December 12, 2007 i second Walk on the Wild Side (if it's the multi-pitch on Saddle Rock). Awesome fun climb! Quote
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