Cougar Crags Topo?

[jlag]

Seems to be a lot of new activity out at Cougar, was wondering if anyone has a topo including the new routes? Who the fuck bolted cracks out there? Hard to tell where the anchors are on some of the new lines.

 

Anyways, any info would be helpful. You can PM if you want to keep it more hush hush.

 

THANK YOU

 

JL

[letsroll]

you mean to tell me there is a place other than smith to climb at? NO WAY

 

What about trout creek? any route info for that one?

 

 

edit to say not wanting to hyjack thread but piggie back about trout

Edited October 25, 2007 by letsroll

[markd]

the trout guide is online! it costs $5 i believe.

 

jlag,

i pm'ed you about updated route beta.

[kevbone]

you mean to tell me there is a place other than smith to climb at?

 

 

 

I thought you were going to say “no way, there is another place in central OR that has bolted cracks other than Smith Rocks”?

 

 

 

 

 

[letsroll]

lol Kev. Learned my lesson about stating anything about bolts and routes.

 

 

[crimper]

what bolted cracks are you thinking of, kevbone?

[jlag]

Never got a PM from you Mark. Anything would be helpful though.

 

thanks

 

JL

[kevbone]

what bolted cracks are you thinking of, kevbone?

 

 

One example would be the 5.8/5.9 on the Phoenix Buttress, far left side. The third and fifth bolt are right next to gear placement in solid rock.

[Stewart]

Who the fuck bolted cracks out there?

JL

 

i have climbed there once. It was one of the best days of climbing I had all summer. Thanks to Markd for getting me out there and my girlfriend waiting at the base for us. We climbed the "direct old school route" (5.9). It was incredible!

 

On the descent, I noticed a bolted fist Jam. It looked like the bolts had also been glued in. The glue left huge stains all around the bolts and made them more obvious. Its hard to say that it was textbook for "bolted cracks", because it was worse than that. I just can't understand how someone could think that those actions were ok. they disrespected a gorgous place.

 

Lucky for me, I remember the climb, more so that the shitty bolt job.

 

stewart

[jlag]

MarkD rules

 

Yes, that's the crack in question. Maybe "Ryan", who bolted that crack could come clean right now and tell us why he did it. The glue was added so the bolts couldn't be pulled very easily, except for that it's smeared all over the rock. AND it's a shitty route anyway.

 

Chop that shit.

 

JL

[letsroll]

oh no jlag said it, chop the bolts. Working on your own "free wood" thread. Think you can beat my 7 page wonder?

 

If you are going to bolt and glue, make sure it is a clean job. Half assed is NOT the way to go.

[colonelfridae]

fully agree with earlier posts about how cruddy epoxy looks on the rock out there. bolting cracks now that's just plain cookey.

Spray painting bolts is also a smashing idea. One can see all those shiny bolts from the valley floor. Other than that let's hope more people don't get out the drill over there since there is lots more development potential. Anyways I am looking for the mysterious hand drawn topo for area if anyone can help. Was on the direct 5.9 yesterday and the last rap anchor has a spinner if anyone is heading up soon. peace, colonel

[markd]

here's a pic of one of the bolts on the bolted crack:

 

colonelfridae,

the topo isn't so much of a mystery as you might think; however, folks are leery to pass out beta because of the potential for more of the above. send me a pm and i might be able to help you with some beta.

 

----------------

 

cougar is a great crag and it would be a shame if it became a big clip up crag. the adventurous spirit has lasted many years and there is no reason for that to change as there are plenty of other crags around bend.

 

 

[kevbone]

I climbed at Couger one time with Mark and Bryan.....had a great time.....we only sport climbed....could not imagine placing gear there....but what do I know?

 

That picture looks like pigeon shit not glue.

[crimper]

kevbone, i was there with markd and watched ryan prepare to bolt that crack even as we stopped him beforehand and basically said "don't do it." obviously he ignored us and drilled the holes as soon as we walked off. i can assure you it's glue in the photo as me and mark were so pissed we went back and led the crack sans bolts a bit later. i led it again this past fall with my sister, and the glue is so obnoxious you can see it from the road below. if ryan is reading this, we tried to save you from yourself and TOLD YOU that you were bolting an existing trad line using an existing anchor that someone else drilled - and you violated the most basic rule of bolting an existing trad line.

 

oh, and the gear at cougar is surprisingly good. the steeper the wall, the better the gear seems to be the general rule. most of the recent FAs out there have been groundup, no bolts placed on rappel. then again, i've also backed off on 2 ascents there due to loose flakes/blocks.

[jlag]

i've led the crack as well, gear is just fine. When can we chop that thing? Or better yet i'll let you guys pull the bolts and i'll just kick his ass.

 

 

I've also noticed a good amount of bolted routes on the east end of the crag, mostly steep starts to slabs, sport bolted. Don't think any of those were bolted on lead.

 

JL

[kevbone]

Don't think any of those were bolted on lead.

 

 

Do they need to be?