Which Guide Services Have You Used

[Bug]

I think the article says a lot more.

 

It mentions some misinformation (withheld) during the search. It also mentions the poor working relationship w/ others during the search. That reflects on everyone involved.

 

It also mentions a greiving mother who somehow doesn't feel too connected w/ the company her daughter owned. That is supported and reflected by an absurb comment from the chairman of the board who actually said to the press about the entire affair, "Disappointment was born of expectation." What sensitivity!

_________________________

 

I agree with all your points. I expect that the press worked to ferret out any conflict and controversy to put in the article, so the portrait may be a little skewed. Peace and harmony just doesn't sell copy.

I have been quoted and interviewed a few times and I am always amazed at what I read. Human error and sales.

[faster_than_you]

Peace and harmony may not sell news copy, but you get the real impression that there isn't peace and harmony. I wonder what Chris (and Scott Fischer) would think about this?

[davidjo]

Choose the American Alpine Institute. Great guides and great staff...and they teach you a lot. I learned to climb with them

 

I second this. I've taken several courses/trips with the Institute and they have been excellent. Unlike some of the other companies, courses and instruction are a primary focus for AAI and they do them often and well.

 

davidjo

[jgmnyc]

I have used RMI on three different routes up Rainier. They are large, well organized with terrific Guides. There is also some overlap among RMI & IMG. I have not used IMG, but am planning on using them next summer for a Mt. Bona trip. IMG was recommended to me by a well known Guide from RMI. I have also been in Alaska with Alpine Ascents and they are strong as well. My suggestion is to go with the same service on Rainier that offers a Denali schedule you like. It is hard to go wrong with any of these three. All are well organized, well established and responsible, which is not the case for some of the otherwise well know services out there.

[crazy_t]

I would recommend you get familiar with each of the companies via their websites and marketing materials, and through talking to their office staff. Each organization is going to have a different "vibe" or personality. They will tend to do things in their own style. All of the three companies you have referred to are solid, well-established and will do a good job. As a guide, I have found that some people respond better to one guiding style, while others prefer a different tone or set of guiding principles. Finding the group that feels more "like you" or speaks to your eventual goals will be important.

 

If Rainier is in your plans, you'll have to go with one of them. If it's not neccessarily Rainier but rather any glacier experience you are looking for, you will have more choices. I would recommend using the same service for your Rainier or training as you will for Denali (I'm sure you're thinking this way). Best case scenario, you have a good first experience, find a guide you trust and click with, and that guide will be working Denali trips later so that you can sign on to his/her dates. It will save a lot of stress and you'll likely have more fun. Guides appreciate regular clients; they know what they are getting and can customize their instruction or style to suit you best.

 

Think about your long-term goals as well. Do you want to lead your own trips, is that what excites you ultimately? Or do you see your climbing as a cool trip every year or two, progressing in challenge etc. A lot of my clients are really solid climbers, have learned a lot along the way and could do well on their own, but don't have the time to climb enough to stay on top of everything, live somewhere where there are no mountains, or can't find partners. Because of the circumstances of the professional and family lives, they can't pick up and become regular climbers. If that's you, getting a good relationship with a guide service and individual guides will be a good thing, and you'll want to go with a company that retains their good guides over the years.

 

If you want these trips as a starting point to your own personal climbing, you'll find that most guides and companies are totally behind that and if you let your guides know, they will teach you to a different level. Most guides are guiding because they love the mountains (it's definitely not for the love of fat paychecks) so they can relate to that. It's good to have those types of individuals to refer to when getting gear, planning trips etc.

 

Good luck, be safe and have a blast!