first ascent [TR] Sawtooths: Peak 9211 (Ne'er-do-well) East Face, - FA: A Bums Rush III 5.11- 8/26/2007

[powderhound]

Trip: Sawtooths: Peak 9211 (Ne'er-do-well) East Face, - FA: A Bums Rush III 5.11-

 

Date: 8/26/2007

 

Trip Report:

This August Trevor Bowman and I spent a little bit of time in the Sawooths, here we stumbled upon this great face near little baron lake. Peak 9211' is not known to have been climbed via a technical route. If no other ascent exsit we would like to give it the "climbers guide" name Ne'er-do-well; a slang on never do well, meaning: A self-indulgent person who spends time avoiding work or other useful activity

 

The East Face of Ne'er-do-well Peak

 

 

We picked a line up the center face up to the main break 4/5th's the way up and then took the only obvious line up the upper headwall.

 

 

A Bums Rush: 5 Pitchs, 265meters + 200m of 3rd/4th class to summit

 

Pitch One: 5.7 55m

Start in a R trending crack about 40' uphill (left) of the most obvious diagonal crack. Follow this to a L facing dihedral to a

good leadge w/ 2 trees.

 

 

Pitch Two: 5.9 65m

Continue straight up the R leaning thin crack past two small buldges and wander up a left (5.6/7ish) then back right and up a cupped hands crack to a ledgyish area.

 

looking down at pitch two as trevor pulls the bludges and begins the sweet moderate climbing

 

Pitch Three: 5,8 60m

Follow the big corner system up cracks and dihedrals to a good ledge

 

this photo shows trevor wandering up to no-where land for thirty feet to a table sized flake that gave him shivers. He downclimbed the like 5.9ish corner and traversed right to the ocbvious big corner system. We are recomending to go straight to the corner system.

 

Pitch Four: 5.7 20m

Take a R leaning flared chimneyto the major upper ledge that cuts below the upper headwall.

 

Pitch Five: 5.11a 65m Sorry No Pics for this wild pitch

Start up a blocky corner to a short awkward chimney 5.9 (get gear in when you can). Continue up splitter 4" -3" crack 5.10 to alcove. Make the strenous slightly overhanging hand traverse (no feet out of the alcove to the left(5.11a), continue up the 3" crack to a short chimney finish(5.9).

 

Take 200m of 3rd and 4th class wandering up blocks + slabs to thew summit. With the Chockstone splitter

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Large set of Nuts and pea nuts (the toofs take them so well)

single set of small cams

doubles .5BD-#2bd

1 of #3 bd. ( you may want to take 2 #3's)

Cord cause there all gear anchors

 

Approach Notes:

Take same descent as carpal tunnel

[Bug]

Nice looking line. Well done!!!!

[billcoe]

Sweet stuff Bryan! Gotta love granite, it's looks mostly solid to0!

 

keep up the good work sir and thanks for sharing!