Stevens Pass Motel?

[Sol]

TR'd it a little bit ago, and either i'm not worthy, or something broke off that bitch, but that rig has got to be the hardest 11d ive ever been on. I couldn't make out any blocks to sling or pro that would make it a reasonable lead up to the first bolt. has the route changed or is croft just a major sandbagger?

[JensHolsten]

Steven's Pass Motel is a great climb. There is a bomber green camelot placement before the first bolt underneath a small roof. 11D seems like a fair grade (I don't think it's 5.12), but a crimp on the face may have broken since I was on it a few years ago. Which way did you finish the climb?

[Sol]

finished a bit to the right (it was a weird finish). after running laps on ROTC and mistakingly gettin on in search of the perfect pump to start out the day, we were a bit worked, so maybe that's what was up. but it seemed leagues harder than each of those routes. ??? who knows, thanks for the info. the dagoba system looks rad, a worthy bolt replacement project.

[matt_m]

Rumor also has it that that bolt had a looonng sling on it back in the croft day. If it ever gets replaced (it's getting old) it should be moved lower for a similar clip to the FFA.

 

 

 

[Sol]

Rumor also has it that that bolt had a looonng sling on it back in the croft day. If it ever gets replaced (it's getting old) it should be moved lower for a similar clip to the FFA.

 

 

word

[Dane]

Did SPM a few times in the '80s and indeed the sling on the bolt was longer than normal. We'd clip the sling then clip the bolt with a short QD. Those were the old days so we finished in the crack not on the face.

 

I doubt Croft was bothered much by the start or the crux. We all know Croft soloed ROTC....how do you thnk he got to the start of ROTC?