[TR] The Magician - Magic Dragon 9/4/2007

[Otto]

Trip: The Magician - Magic Dragon

 

Date: 9/4/2007

 

Trip Report:

JMclimber and I decided it was high time to visit the Needles in the Southern Sierras. It took us two days to drive down there via 395. Slept with cows in a field that night. Not advisable to approach from the East, the roads across the Sierra are slow. Tried to stay in Peppermint Campground but it was full of firefighters. Hope we didn't miss you there, Jake.

 

The first climb we did was on the nearest crag, The Magician. We figured Magic Dragon, 6p, 5.8 would be a good intro as it covers the entire length of the crag.

 

The amazing West wall.

 

At the start of the route.

 

Hardish start, indeed it seemed like .10a, and had to scrape weeds out the the crack to get in some tiny cams.

 

The rest of the group.

 

A nice wide crack on the third pitch.

 

The fire lookout on the top, which was manned and operating.

 

It was a good choice, with a variety of wide crack to smearing slab at the start. Got the butterflies out of the way.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Full range.

 

Approach Notes:

We went up from Pearsonville on 395, and saw the sights, long way in. Shorter from the West side, Porterville.

[111]

nice. How tall are routes there generally? Whats the best season to go in?

[Otto]

Well, I've only been there this once. It sure was nice in September, hot in the sun and perfect in the shade. So I'd guess mid-summer would be too hot for this Northwesterner. Late spring would probably be good, as soon as the snow is gone.

[Serenity]

I've driven several ways, but agree that 395 is a thuggish grind designed to chip away at your sanity. Good pictures!