Mex volcanoes 11/15 - 12/2

[Dswink]

I am looking for partners to climb Pico de Orizaba, Iztaccihuatl, La Malinche and Nevado de Toluca from November 15 to December 2, 2007. I hope for a trip with a relaxed pace and plenty of time for acclimatization. Climbing more than one route on Orizaba and Izta is definitely an option.

 

I can speak enough Spanish to travel and have fun in Mexico.

 

Please PM me if interested.

 

Dave

[pinegar]

I've had similar plans, but I'm probably less serious and sometime in January would be more likely, due to scheduling. I want to drive my car around Mexico for a few weeks, seeing some central areas and points on the Pacific coast. carrying skis up would be the best way I think (more self-respecting descent), though I've heard they turn to blocks of ice after about November.

[crazy_t]

Only one you'd have a chance at respectable turns (at that time of year) would be Orizaba. Nevado is dry, and Ixta has melted so much in the last 5 years it's shocking. There is hardly any glacier left. You could get some token turns, but it's out as far as a "ski descent" mountain, at least in climbing season. Orizaba has 800m vertical or so from the summit that's skiable, maybe you could put some turns together in the gullies, but I've only seen the Jamapa glacier corned up once out out of 5/6 times. It's often snicey.

 

If you're considering those steep gullies around the left of the Jamapa as another route option, we looked at doing those last year and found sketchy old/dirty ice (very hard); it has really melted out. Stay away from the town on the other side of Ixta (on the "Head" side, access to those routes); there have been numerous reports of violence - break-ins, assault, rape- in recent years. A lot of break-ins parking at the regular route trailhead on Ixta as well; I've often had a driver for that leg, dropping us off and picking us up later so the car's not exposed. Orizaba and Toluca don't seem to have as much trouble in that regard.

 

It's a great place to travel and climb though, doing the alternating between heat and haciendas or cities (and some rock climbing) and getting blasted by wind and snow wearing goggles and crampons. I'd put my "self-respecting" type energy into the style points factor of having a cool travel experience that includes a few summit days, personally speaking.

 

If you guys go, consider spending a night in Tepotztlan (cool small town btw. Toluca and Puebla/Tlachichuca with a small pyramid and fun vibe) and Valle de Bravo (great bigger town down from Toluca, rock climbing in the vicinity too) besides other obvious destinations. Cholula is kind of fun these days too. Go to the party boats at Xochimilco for some real fun too.

 

Suerte!

Edited September 29, 2007 by crazy_t

[crmlla2007]

I've been lightly thinking about something similar but in a more hurried fashion - since two weeks off work isn't in the cards for me right now.

 

If you or anyone is interested in an Orizaba 3-4 day in the same time frame let me know.

[taternik]

If you guys go, consider spending a night in Tepotztlan (cool small town btw. Toluca and Puebla/Tlachichuca with a small pyramid and fun vibe) and Valle de Bravo (great bigger town down from Toluca, rock climbing in the vicinity too) besides other obvious destinations.

I totally second the Valle de Bravo recommendation. We spent some time there six years ago when I did Nevado de Toluca and Orizaba over Thanksgiving of 2001. There's some decent cragging near town, and the large lake offers plenty of recreational activities.

[ryland_moore]

I recommend staying at Luis Reyes' place/Servimont before heading up Orizaba. Cool old soap factory with bouldering wall, a place to hide any vehicle in the compound walls, transportation to the climbers refugio, and great food. they run a great outfit. Cool to read all of the climbers' logs back to the 1930s too.

 

Also, for La malinche, you can rent cabins just below with a place to cook and fireplace. pretty nice as we had miserable weather when there for La malinche so the cabin and fireplace were awesome and cheap.

 

Finally, to reward yourselves after a climb of Orizaba, head down to the coast and relax in the Carribean/Gulf/ Veracruz area. We went from the summit of Orizaba at 18,700' to sea level and sipping on margaritas and playing in the ocean in less than 24 hours and dancing the night away with mexican hotties at the discoteque. Where else can you go from one extreme to the other anywhere else in the world? The coast is much further away in the Andes and the waters off even Ecuador are not super warm. Can't do it in the Himal or AK either. It is a great way to end a climbing trp for sure.....

[fenderfour]

We went to Orizaba a few years ago. We did not rent a car. The bus system down there is fantastic. We went from Mexico City all the way to Tlachichuca in a little less than a day and had quite the experience doing it.

 

We stayed with Senor Limon in Tlachichuca. We ate with the family while we were there. He has a smaller operation than Sr. Reyes, but Sr. Limon is a person you won't soon forget. Chatting with him was one of the highlights of the trip.