Beta for Gnarly Routes

[Dwayner]

Hone-masters:

I be seeking some beta on a few gnarl-fests for possible summer consideration. You been there? Let's hear how "hinky" it was:

1) the elusive Mt. Garfield

2) N. face of Mt. Bering

3) (not necessarily gnarly but...)Golden Arches, Index Upper Town Wall.

gracias, Dwayner

[specialed]

What you want to know about upper town wall?

[Dwayner]

Ahoy, Mr. Special!

Been going up there for over 20 years, but never done Golden Arches. Seen the descriptions, but was interested in some anecdotes about the arch part and such, if the belays be good, etc.

thanks! Dwayner

 

[specialed]

I'd be interested in that information too. It looks like a cool route - the most obvious one on the wall, but I haven't done it.

Hey, I've got an idea, let's do it this weekend!

[This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-28-2001).]

[ScottP]

I've done the first and second pitches a couple of times now. The crux has eluded me once due to rain and once for being a weaney.

The belay at the top of the arch pitch has at least one 3/8ths bolt and two or three old 1/4 inchers. the hooking fromt here is not obvious. I could find no batholes to get over to the flakes from the belay and didn't relish a swing into the corner if I came off. (I have since figured that a little slack would produce less of a swing and the drop is clean)Once at the flakes, the rest of the pitch to the turn at the corner looks very straightforward.

I hammered a couple of angles in the arch pitch itself, and found larger cam hooks useful on the first pitch (the first time I din't have them and had to free climb left past some funk in my wall boots)

I wish I had more to offer.

[crazyjizzy]

In 1981 I took three twenty footers straight onto the belay on the crux. Went back several weeks later and did the route. After the hooking the route eases, but is in no way easy.

[klar]

Uhh... so garfield. Doorish or standard? been up the standard. Thinkin' 'bout the Doorish. Standard = brush+ . Not a bad trip, per say. I've got beta for it, if yer into it. By the way, Hi scott p.! hope the kids are doing o.k.. haven't been up to canis crag yet, but plan on going up sometime this summer. I would still like to go with you, if you got the spare time.