liberty crack???

[letsroll]

I am planning on giving the route a go in a couple of weeks. I have a question on the "fixed" gear. The guide book says as well as other places that the route will go clean. Is this still true. Should I take a hammer to give the pins a test pound? I am really excited to give this route a go. Just want to be sure I have good info since this will be my first alpine aid.

 

I have one set of C3's, Double .3-#3, one #4, two sets of nuts. I am going to look into borrow double set of aliens (older model) and get another set of .3-#3. I am thinking this will get me up the route. Am I wrong?? I am also going look into borrowing some hooks.

[counterfeitfake]

It goes clean. If you want you can bring a rock up with you and chuck it at the top of P3.

 

If you borrow all the gear you say you want to borrow that rack is definitely adequate. I think you probably don't need triples of cams especially if you're comfortable leapfrogging pieces. Offset aliens and offset nuts make life easier but you can make do without them. You should bring a hook or two.

[robertm]

I just climbed this a couple of weeks ago. A large rack should do... we took way to much gear. the A3 pitch had a small wire that was frayed but seemed to have a few more uses left - goes free at 11b if you want to climb it. I took cam hooks thinking I would use them but really didn't. The free climbing is high quality and the rock is great. I fixed the first two pitches in the afternoon with a single 70m. This made for a very casual second day. I don't aid climb so we were slow on the aid pitches. Cool climb.

[counterfeitfake]

Here's my TR if you want it.

[hefeweizen]

I just climbed this a couple of weeks ago. A large rack should do... we took way to much gear. the A3 pitch had a small wire that was frayed but seemed to have a few more uses left - goes free at 11b if you want to climb it. I took cam hooks thinking I would use them but really didn't. The free climbing is high quality and the rock is great. I fixed the first two pitches in the afternoon with a single 70m. This made for a very casual second day. I don't aid climb so we were slow on the aid pitches. Cool climb.

 

A3 pitch? Maybe 1950's A3.

 

We did the same thing, fixing the first two in the afternoon and finishing the next day. I'd recommend this approach if you have the time and aren't hung up on the "one-day ascent."

Edited August 30, 2007 by hefeweizen

[Sol]

easy to do in a day with short fixing. there is so much fixed gear a large rack is not necessary. one skyhook is all that's needed, set and a half of nuts, double rack from blue alien to #2, single 3 and 4. the old school A3, is now C1+. no pins or hammer needed.