[TR] Washington Pass, North Early Winters Spire - Northwest Corner 8/22/2007

[catbirdseat]

Trip: Washington Pass, North Early Winters Spire - Northwest Corner

 

Date: 8/22/2007

 

Trip Report:

MarkMcKillop and I arrived at the Blue Lake Parking Lot at 8 am in company with another pair of climbers intent on the same route. They got onto the trail before we did.

 

The weather was cool and there was no dust on the trail, as it had rained hard the previous day. We made good time to the base of the route where Brian and Motown were racking up. One was from Seattle and the other had recently moved from Bellingham to Detroit, hence the nickname.

 

Mark led up close behind on the somewhat manky first pitch. When I arrived he whispered to me that the other two climbers were off route and appeared to be headed up the West Face route.

 

By the time I have finished leading the second pitch, the others were back on route below us. I opted to also lead the third, since I didn't feel up to the crux fourth pitch.

 

Rather than reflaking the rope we decided to exchange rope ends. I was starting the third pitch when I noticed I was only tied through the leg loops. Doh! I solved the problem temporarily by clipping a locking carabiner through the loop in the rope and the top tie-in.

 

Mark did a fine job of the crux pitch which was wet in a few places. We actually had more big cams than we needed.

 

I took the fifth pitch, the start of which was pretty wet, but it went okay anyway. I thought it was a really fun pitch.

 

We topped out at 2 pm and rummaged through the ammo box that was the summit register as we ate lunch. Some exhibitionist had crowed about doing the West Face in three pitches and how he was off to the Karakorum. He had taped his card to the inside of the lid to make sure all would see it.

 

Also in the box was what looked like a tiny photo of Mike Layton with another fellow we couldn't identify. WTF?

 

The descent started with three single rope raps. The second one seemed to require a 60 m rope, unless we missed something. None of the slings appeared to have been swapped out this year. If you go you might like to bring some new webbing.

 

I thought this was a really fine route and we both enjoyed it a lot.

 

Gear Notes:

Single 60 m rope. Doubles from #0.5 to #4 Camalot plus #5. We had a #6, but it wasn't really needed.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is quite easy to follow. No water in stream where climber's trail leaves main trail.

[rob]

I solved the problem temporarily by clipping a locking carabiner through the loop in the rope and the top tie-in.

 

quick thinking

 

 

Also in the box was what looked like a tiny photo of Mike Layton with another fellow we couldn't identify. WTF?

 

 

nice job, guys.

Edited August 23, 2007 by robmcdan

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Coolio, it's a fun route. We were up there last weekend and did it. We ended up with two teams in front of us and luckily they both bailed below the 5.8 flakes for lack of big gear. Funny enough I led it without placing anything bigger than a #1, even though I had up to a #4 camalot. That was the funnest pitch.

 

Also we rapped with a single 60 three times to get to the gulley, one more past the chockstone, and one more time to the skiers right of the gulley from a tree near the bottom. Didn't need a second rope for anything, or were you just using a 50m?

[cman]

Mark with those mad crack skills. i thought the 4th pitch was hard, i am glad it was not wet on saturday. I agree about the big cams. we had 3 and only needed 2.

we seem to be climbing all the same routes, what are you getting on next?

[catbirdseat]

We had a 60 meter rope and were glad of it on the second rappel. We skipped the fifth and last rappel and downclimbed instead.

 

I agree that the fourth pitch seemed hard for 5.9. I guess I need to put in more time on offwidths.

 

I'd like to do the S. Face of Prussik and then Backbone Ridge.

Edited August 23, 2007 by catbirdseat

[layton]

I've heard about this photo, WTF??? I also heard from Jay and Brian that they ran into you....you're famous. Jay will be pleased with his new nickname.

[catbirdseat]

It wasn't I who gave him the nickname. It was his partner Brian. It became necessary to avoid confusion when calling "off belay".

[TrogdortheBurninator]

The 4th pitch on NW corner is way easier than that the flare on Prusik.