[TR] Garfield - Infinite Bliss 8/18/2007

[Rad]

Trip: Garfield - Infinite Bliss drive-through

 

Date: 8/18/2007

 

Trip Report:

Saturday Trog and I went up this route. Temps were cool, clouds swirled, but the weather held and we had a great day. Everything went quite smoothly thanks to beta from a few generous souls. I've tried to capture some of that info below.

 

I have been asked to to remind you that rock climbing is dangerous, this route could be dangerous, there is no guarantee that information in these images is correct or complete or will protect you from injury or death, and you should use your own good judgment to protect yourself and others.

 

This route is in an ecologically sensitive area so please tread lightly and be safe.

 

p11.

 

Swirling in the mist around p13.

 

The upper slab (view from anchor 16 toward partner at anchor 17, headwall beyond)

 

p19.

 

Moves to the final anchor.

 

Rope management 101.

 

Beta that we hope will help keep you on route and out of trouble (topo removed by request so you'll have to settle for the text version):

 

Pitches 14-17 are easy, low-angle, and loose, and they are a source of confusion and concern for many parties. This section is worth enduring because the last pitches (18-23) are arguably the best of the climb. Anchors 15, 16, 17 are currently tagged with red webbing (not visible from the base at all).

 

It is >60m between 15 & 16 anchors. Anchor 15 is on an indistinct ledge that cuts across the bottom of a giant, broken slab. A large bush is up and right of anchor 15 by about 50 feet. It has slings on it. If you follow the 'ledge' rightward past the first bush you will see a lone second bush that also has slings. Anchor 16 is almost directly above this upper bush (upper bush smaller than lower bush). Anchor 17 is a full ropelength above and slightly left of anchor 16 (see photo).

 

To ascend this section without unroping there are several options:

1 Climb 60m from anchor 15 to the upper bush (slings, rap rings). Then climb to anchor 16.

2 Simulclimb from anchor 15 to anchor 16 by clipping the slings on the bushes as intermediate protection (a few gear placements also possible).

 

To descend without unroping, rap 200ft from upper bush to 15 anchor or downclimb/hike.

 

Other notes:

Step left at start of p21 and go up a corner system (see photo). The chains at anchor 21 are rumored to bind the rope on rappel. Leave biner on right chain to avoid this.

 

Our attempt to rap from anchor 11 to anchor 10 resulted in a rope stuck in a nasty flake. We had to reclimb p11 (seen below) to get it. To avoid this fate, rap 200ft from anchor 12 to the ledge at base of p11, then scramble 3rd class down to anchor 10.

 

Gear Notes:

Rope, Qdraws, beta.

 

Approach Notes:

STAY ON THE TRAIL past the creekbed, past the first spot where you see the upper wash, past the high point in the woods, to the end of the traverse in the woods, down to a ledge near the waterfall at the foot of a huge cliff. Look for the first bolt on a rock step to the right of the waterfall.

Edited August 22, 2007 by Rad

[billcoe]

Were you able to use Raindawgs new protection tool and avoid the bolts?

 

 

 

They say it sucks, but I haven't confirmed this.

 

Thanks for the directions!