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Posted

I've heard alot of reports on other routes that say there is alot of water ice that must be protected and is still dicey. Sounds pretty bad, I was plannin on a late season attempt myself, but not so sure now.

Posted

I've been there last year in September.

It is solid AI2 with overall ice climbing for 4-500 feet.

It is protectable. The ice will be very hard since it cools overnight and becomes very cold in the early morning.

Posted

Climbed the Kautz on the 8th. The chute was alpine ice under a thin layer of rotten neve. The steepest section (~60deg max) is about 250ft and feels solid.

 

photos:

 

chute

IMG_3517.jpg

 

 

in the chute looking up

IMG_3519.jpg

 

 

in the chute looking down

IMG_3520.jpg

 

 

There is also a steep section below the chute but it's heavily sun cupped so the going is easy.

 

photo:

IMG_3515.jpg

 

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