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wayne

Giving it up-Topos

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Here are a couple of topos of FA's I did long ago that people have been requesting, I never published them, but kept topos all the while. They are very good yet difficult routes. There is more info in the gallery post of the photo.Sorry for the quality issues .they are courtesy of Bob Mcgown and Tim Olson

Dragons_of_Eden-Topo.jpgDragons_of_Eden-Topo.jpgSolid_Gold-Prussik-Topo.jpgSolid_Gold-Prussik-Topo.jpg

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we had to drill a bolt on the only available ledge,it had no anchors. It was pretty clear it was an fa to me at least. There were however backoff slings below the poison pill block. Blake it is either the first or second of the dihedrals from the farthest left.

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wayne glad you finally got around to posting these. I tried to post them a few years ago but got frustrated with sizing and said f it and filed the topos for later (only to forget about posting them). oh well.

Prusik definitely has a bunch of high quality routes on the south face...and that area of Dragontail looks superb! Oh so much sweet MSB!

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Hey Wayne (or Sol?) I wonder how Solid Gold relates to the 4 various Fred Yackulic routes on the South Face of Prusik? I found a couple entries from the AAJ, routes were in 1988 and 1987 .

 

Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge. On August 16(1987), Rich Romano and

I ascended the leftmost crack system on the south face of Prusik. The large

overhang on the second pitch was passed on the right. A short overhanging

hand crack and airy face moves brought us to the west-ridge route. (The climb

is left of the Boving-Christensen route.) (II, 5.10.)

 

 

Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge.

 

On August 3 (1988), after being stopped the

previous day, Rich Romano led through the large overhangs 50 feet to the right

of our 1987 route. A pitch higher in a big alcove, we crossed left of the other

route, then climbed a beautiful white dihedral by a thin finger crack, gaining the

west ridge (II, 5.11+). The following day, we climbed a diagonaling crack

system up and to the right to a belay on the southwest arcte and ultimately to the

west ridge (II, 5.11). On August 11, David Goland and I did a route that starts

further left, in a striking right-angle dihedral. After two pitches, we were forced

out of the dihedral by the lack of protection. We entered a curving slot up and

right, which placed us at the base of the now familiar finger crack (II, 5. IO+).

The climbs are named Double Bein, Keep on Belton. and Notley’s Direct.

FRED YACKIJLIC

 

 

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