[TR] Blanshard Needle - South Face 8/11/2007

[pazzo]

Trip: Blanshard Needle - South Face

 

Date: 8/11/2007

 

Trip Report:

Well, this wasn't really a trip, but rather a day hike. I've included it here cause i think it's a neat climb, which sees very little traffic. So, i climbed Blanshard Needle (again) via the standard South Face route w/ my friend Andre. There's really not much to tell about the climb, other than it's extremely close to my house (accessible by foot through UBC Research Forest - Alouette), although i did not use this approach. I've climbed Alouette in winter from my house, but i have yet to traverse over to the Needle. This ascent was approached as always, from Evans Creek/ Fly Gully. The gully was filled w/ snow for about 2/3 of the way, which made travel quite easy (crampons recommended), as opposed to the usual mud/ scree slog it is later in the year... The one setback is that we took the right hand gully instead of the left gully!? After being up there 6 TIMES, one would think they knew where they were going . I noticed the trail continued a little further up Evans Creek before heading into the creek bed, which threw me off since my previous ascents, the last being two years ago. So i was expecting the left branch to the gully to start a little further up the creek. And to top it off, i saw lots of flagging tape heading all the way up the right gully(?) which also threw me off. Oh well, mental note.

The climbing was easy and enjoyable on the Needle proper, once we reached it. The crux of the route would be the first 30 ft. which has a short vertical step near the top (4th?), but is easily climbed without a rope. If a rope was brought, it would be used to rappel this section whilst descending. On this ascent, my partner insisted i belay him on this section. He also felt more comfortable rappelling it on the way down... He climbed to the base of the Needle w/ me a couple years ago, but wouldn't continue to the top due to it snowing/ raining, and having no rope. I continued to the summit w/ no problems, and downclimbed the route.

From above the 'crux' section it's an easy scramble to the top. There's a sub-summit which will be passed on the way which is kinda cool. From the summit, there's excellent views of Edge, Golden Ears and all the typical surrounding peaks one would see form any summit in the area. The NW ridge of Blanshard, which heads to Edge, looks amazing, and is reportedly and easy 3-4th class scramble, w/ a possible rappel or two?

 

upper Evans Creek w/ Fly Gully (snow filled)

Fly Gully

the next two shots were taken half way up the gully, looking down then up

first pitch

sub-summit

NW ridge, leading down from summit of Blanshard over to Edge. Golden Ears on left.

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Possible rope (an 8mm 30m Rando type should suffice) for a rappel on the first pitch, when descending.

 

Approach Notes:

West Canyon Trail to Evans Creek - follow south side of Evans Creek to where trail meets Creek bed, then follow the dry creek bed, TAKING THE LEFT BRANCH, which is encountered a minute or so after entering the creek. It may look a bit overgrown compared to the right branch, but it soon opens up after turning right and heading up the valley.

[JasonG]

Oh man, dR is going to be pissed that you are drawing attention to his favorite conditioner . . . 37 times and counting!

 

It is a fun little jaunt, isn't it?

[dR]

Actually, it's now 40...but who's counting?!

 

The ridge connection to Edge/Golden Ears should be done North-to-South (finish on Blanshard). It's class 3-4 and quite brushy. It is kinda fun to link them all together though.

 

Dennis

Edited August 16, 2007 by dR

[G-spotter]

i think it's a neat climb, which sees very little traffic

 

[pazzo]

i think it's a neat climb, which sees very little traffic

 

 

roflmao... compared to other climbs/ hikes *cough* W. Lion *cough*

[pazzo]

It is a fun little jaunt, isn't it?

 

it's ok i guess... the upper section is great, but the lower half SUCKS unless the gully is snow filled. i would like to see how the traverse goes from the White Dyke over to Blanshard, descending the S face!?