Hotlum Glacier

[tom prigg]

I actually started this thread in trip reports.

 

I don't think it would go there...

 

Anyways, I am looking for some beta on Hotlum Glacier ice headwall route. Any of you been up there lately? Can ya tell me anything about the route?

 

Thanks.

[luvshaker]

I did the Hotlum headwall "Coulior" variation a few years ago but after I checked the dates, realized it was mid June. It was one of the few really worth while routes on Shasta. We had three long pitches of around 65 to 70 degree ice that took screws well. If there was still ice there in August it should be really fun.

[Buckaroo]

Climbed the Hotlum- Wintun ridge in early Sept 2002 with the right ice face variation at the top. It was hard alpine ice with sun cups but only about 45 to 50 deg and you could escape onto the ridge at any point if you had to. This is left of Hotlum headwall ice gully.

 

old TR from 2002

[crazy_t]

I was there in May, and scoped out that area; I climbed up Hotlum Bolam ridge and down the Hotlum.

 

Not sure exactly what line you are talking about (hotlum glacier ice headwall). I looked at that right ice variation, in late may it was already blue ice and discontinuous (i.e. rock/scree) for at least 100' above the top of the main glacier to the upper "tongue". Scoped the headwall (rock), as I hadn't been able to find much info on it online; I spied a couple of doable lines, but it was super chossy, more the type of line a local who had done a lot of other routes there and wanted to add that one to his/her list would do.

 

Don't know if this helps. In May they were saying they had had 29% of an average snowpack this winter, so it was pretty meager, and lines/ice that I had scene in pictures from previous years seemed to have deteriorated. Beautiful place though; I'll be back some time.

[Buckaroo]

I was there in May, and scoped out that area; I climbed up Hotlum Bolam ridge and down the Hotlum.

 

Not sure exactly what line you are talking about (hotlum glacier ice headwall).

 

No I was on the next line to the left, It's a snowfield gully, not as steep as the ice headwall, but it was nice hard ice in Sept '02.

 

Really liked Shasta, it was nice dry open forest on the approaches, no bushwacking involved. Lot better weather on average than something like Rainier.