rob Posted August 3, 2007 Posted August 3, 2007 I've heard a lot of belly-aching about the "east ledges" descent from Forbidden. Is it really that bad? Which is better, going down the east ledges, or downclimbing the west ridge? I've heard rapping the coiloir on the west ridge kinda sucks with a single rope... Thoughts? TIA! Quote
goatboy Posted August 3, 2007 Posted August 3, 2007 It's a little stressful the first time because it's super exposed and kinda loose in places -- but generally, not bad. It's engaging, that's for sure! I wouldn't do it with folks who aren't comfortable scrambling/4th-classing very exposed terrain. Beta: Do 5 rappels and then basically traverse, following occasional cairns but generally just going across the NE Face until regaining the ridge crest via a gully (or the rock rib just west of the gully). I've heard of people simulclimbing across here but it seems like a bad idea since the rock is loose and pro would be scarce... If I only had 1 rope, I would likely got NE Face vs W Ridge... Quote
rob Posted August 3, 2007 Author Posted August 3, 2007 After reaching the solitary gendarme, is the route back to boston basin clear? Quote
ericb Posted August 3, 2007 Posted August 3, 2007 After reaching the solitary gendarme, is the route back to boston basin clear? Ditto on what Goatboy said....I didn't think the ledges were that bad, and I'm not particularly cavalier. With the time you buy by not having to downclimb and rap the west ridge (likely with company), you've got plenty of time to take it slow and steady. I've seen comments from some that have set a running belay, but I didn't think it was that sketchy. I thought the route down from the gendarme was very straightforward.....path of least resistance, but I think there was more snow on it than when I did it. Quote
goatboy Posted August 3, 2007 Posted August 3, 2007 As the snow recedes, you can get cliffed out during the descent -- but if you scope the route well from the top of the East Ridge (near the big gen-darme) you should do well. Quote
Ziff Posted August 4, 2007 Posted August 4, 2007 rob, regarding the descent from the gendarme on the east ridge, don't gut pulled into good looking gullies with rap slings. just stay as far left (skier's, that is) as possible, until you are at the top of the last gulley that descends to the high camp. when the snow has receded, look to the rock on your left (skier's) and you will see some ledges that zig and zag past the usual melt out spot. usually takes anywhere from 1.5 to 3 hours from summit to high camp. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.