beacon - chalk

[kevbone]

Pipeline

[Dechristo]

What do you call the 'right hand in the crack, left on the choss' variation?

 

wait... I'll look it up in the Kama Sutra...

[pink]

pipedream

[kevbone]

pipedream

 

Is how hard I climb these days......

[JosephH]

What do you call the variation where you climb the choss to the left and then traverse right onto Pipeline instead of starting it at the bottom which I never see anyone do?

[kevbone]

Are you asking me? If so....I have no idea. I do know that Mark D did the FA on the chossy ramp to the left of Pipeline in 04 or 05.

[Stewart]

Chossy? I thought that route was pretty good!

 

Kind of late on the topic but isn't winter delight a top rope climb that still has chalk on it from last season? That whole wall is Beacon's gym. I thought the rule was chalk balls only. Sport climbers travel from all over the Northwest to climb it. It is a good way to access Bluebird!

 

Will be climbing Dodd's today. Hopefully the bees aren't to bad.

 

Stewart

 

 

[Cobra_Commander]

I think he's being facetious, kevbone. Joseph, that would be the "avoid the wasps last fall" variation. You still get the business of the pitch and you're not plugging cams blindly into wasps falling out of the crack while making two maybe 5.10 layback moves at the base. We came back and removed the wasps later.

 

re: wasps on dod's. You probably won't even notice them there in this cooler weather. Just good to know that they are there.

 

[JosephH]

Maybe, but I don't think you can really claim to have done it if you're cruising in from the left a quarter or more of the way up the route.

[phillygoat]

That's the way Tim Olson draws it on the topo.

Edited August 5, 2007 by phillygoat

[JosephH]

I don't doubt that for a minute...

[Cobra_Commander]

haha! nice. The true puritans will come in from the very base for those few laybacks, maybe even traverse in from fresh squeeze to keep from yawning. It's a good way to unwind after a 7 hour pre-inspection of Flying Circus.

[JosephH]

"Those few laybacks" are pretty stout and doing essentially blind placements which makes doing the pitch considerably harder by the time you get to the top of it compared to sequeing in part way up. You can attempt to minimize how difficult they make the route, but I suggest you try it that way sometime, before doing so and then report back.

 

As for "pre-inspecting", I FA ground-up, onsight and would never pre-inspect any route out there if I could and still get new anchors on them. I still wouldn't even know their names if it weren't for having to communicate with Jim and Bill during the anchor work. Whether an FA or been climbed 10k times and all things being equal, I never want to know anything whatsoever about a line before I get on them.

 

But there is that comfort in getting older and increasingly more senile by the day. After twenty hours on Flying Circus staring at the end of my chisel so I hammer my hand only a minimum number of times in the inch-by-inch cleaning of the route rather than looking at holds or moves, I can honestly say I barely have a memory of it more than the fact the start and finish are burly. That and the fact consistent width, slightly overhanging offwidths with flat walls on either side makes for some pretty damn futile "previewing" even if one were so inclined.

[Cobra_Commander]

Whoops, forgot how seriously this is taken around here. Just kidding around.

 

As for pipeline I'm not discounting anything, I've done it several times that way. But I'd congratulate and be happy for anyone who leads it either way, if I can be allowed to call it by its name. And if you're worn out by that starting stuff, you need to get in shape! (this is another joke)

 

And reasonable richard isn't a free solo! 3 bomb pieces before the bolt! (ducks)

[JosephH]

Well, I am out of shape and been dogged by a bout of pneumonia for eight weeks that I haven't been able to shake which is keeping me from getting after anything. So all I'm doing is maintenance and easy laps and am very cranky about it so sorry if I seem a bit touchy at the moment.

 

And yes, there is nothing Reasonable about Richard.

[Cobra_Commander]

No problem at all, and you know I appreciate everything.

[kevbone]

Maybe, but I don't think you can really claim to have done it if you're cruising in from the left a quarter or more of the way up the route.

 

First you must define "the route".....the crux does not come until the last 25 feet of the climb.