DMM V-TWIN Belay device

[billcoe]

I just tried out my new Dmm V-Twin belay device that I got at Climb Max today.

 

What separates this from all other atc style devices is that it is made out of Stainless steel.

 

If you are into topropeing and don't want to be spending time washing your rope to get the black alum. oxide off of it - this and steel biners on top are the solution. (or spend the money and get a Cinch).

 

I rapped off of Beacon today and it worked great on my 9.4 mil rope. BUT, it is a tad heavier than an aluminim ATC and is a bit more costly.

 

Not something that everyone would want to run out and get, but for a lonely gear whore with some money burning a hole in his pocket......

[billcoe]

OK, here it is, this thing wears the sheath quickly. After only 2 long steep raps there are visible lines of fluffage on my brand new 9.4 x 70mil Bluewater Dominator rope.

 

 

 

I think the solution is to reverse it so the teeth don't touch the rope while rapping, but have the teeth over the brake part while belaying. They're pretty aggressively sharp.

[Alpinfox]

 

I won't buy a belay device that doesn't do autoblock.

[billcoe]

How nice

[Mark_Husbands]

did you lower anyone on it? would probably chew on the rope the same as rapping i guess.

[billcoe]

I did just last night Mark.

 

I noticed 2 things:

 

1st, you don't have to run the brake side over the teeth when you lower. You can flip it over the side and it works great.

 

2nd, looking at the larger ropes, they don't seem to crank so far down into the V and be bothered by the teeth. I had a 10.2 and tried it on my rope first, and as it's close to new, and I saw nothing disturbed.

 

I'll probably brush the teeth lightly with a piece of 100 grit sandpaper and keep and eye on my skinny lines, I' think it will be fine. Probably just the sharpness of the casting because it's new, and not soft aluminum.

 

It has more friction than any ATC device I've ever used when you lock it down, yet runs freely when lowering. (Bit stiff with Tims 7-8 year old very stiff 11mil PMI. )

 

It's defineatly a keeper.

 

[gt5816v]

I won't buy a belay device that doesn't do autoblock.

 

Is that to protect against this?

 

627268372642109932

[billcoe]

 

What is that to protect against?

 

 

[fenderfour]

useful costume

[billcoe]

I haven't seen these chicks running around at the top of rocky butte, but I do see those wrappers occasionally.