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Hello- Any opinions on approach shoes, e.g. 5.10 Guide or Camp 4, Scarpa Espresso? I'd like to do the obvious with these; carry a pack, do moderate routes, and not carry boots and climbing shoes. Thanks, Michael

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Posted

I've had several pair of Montrail D7's and like them a lot. Unfortunately, they're out of production. You can still find them on discount sites, but it's getting hard to find them in specific sizes.

 

They have a high rand and thin forefoot profile that makes them among the best for foot jamming in cracks. They don't edge all that well, but that's a tradeoff for overall comfort.

 

You might check out the Garmonts. I haven't tried them, but I'm considering them myself.

Posted

I was recently researching approach shoes for myself and found that it seems like on almost all of them half the people who have tried them dislike them, and half swear by them. I ended up getting some Vasque shoe with stealth rubber that I really like. Good for walking/hiking, and are pretty good for edging and cracks up to about 5.8 (for me anyway). Look for whatever is on sale if price makes any difference for you, there are lots of good deals out there.

Posted

5.10 Guides climb really well but have a sloppy fit...good for slab and smearing but crappy for edging. Also the manufacturing quality of these shoes leaves something to be desired.

 

Don't know about the Scarpa but La Sportiva B5 fit like a climbing shoe and climb relatively well.

Posted

The Vasques with the stealth rubber are really nice. quite light & sturdy. I can't say that I have climbed 5.8 cracks in them (goodonya dannible), but they run/walk/smear well.

Posted

I've got a pair of the La Sportiva Cirques. They've worn pretty good and have good traction. They are a tad rough on the feet for real long approaches but still perfect for something like say Stuart West Ridge or similar long scrambles. A softer insole will probably smooth things out. I also like the dot rubber for easy resoling.

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