Splitting a rope?

[payaso]

This may sound silly, but is there a reason why you shouldn't split a rope? I want to have a 30m x 9mm or so alpine rope. I see a lot more 60m ones and was wondering if there is a real reason why this would not be a good idea.

[willstrickland]

No problems with it. The manufacturers split the ropes you buy in the store off a continuous line from a given production run. That's why there are "short" ropes that some places sell of varying lengths...they are the end of a production run and the material doesn't come out precise enough to end the run with an exact length (i.e. 50m or 60m). If you don't melt the ends with good equipment you could get sheath slippage in some cases.

[genepires]

A question I have is how you would be using a 30m rope? Glacier travel? The rope setup should allow for the ability to throw down a line to the victim for various reasons.

If it is for either a team of four or two, then the people will have to be a little less than 40 feet apart. The team of four is fine but for the team of two is to close together. Try holding a fall alone and then imagine it being unexpected and you might slide 25 feet or more before able to hold the fall. Fact is, it is very easy for the sole surface climber to fall in the crevasse as well, when only 40 feet separate the two.

The teams of three will have 60 feet apart and this is pretty good.

Use it for alpine scrambling? probably fine

use it for alpine rock? Probably too short for the pitches and rappels.

[MtnHigh]

Using a short rope on certain alpine climbs is the best way to go. I split a 60mm rope with a friend and have gotten much use out of it.

 

Simul climbing moderate grade alpine rock is better on a shorter rope. Less drag, better communication, increased efficiency. I've also used it on climbs with short ice steps and also for winter climbs in iced up gulleys. The short rope is more efficient in meandering terrain.

 

Using a short rope on a glacier makes no sense.

[pope]

In certain specialized applications a short rope is kind of cool. Another solution (when you're not absolutely sure you won't need a longer rope) is to tie to a long rope, then coil about 10 meters on each end. When you've shortened the rope to your satisfaction, tie in again with a bite. You get most of the benefits of being tied to a short rope, but if you need a long rope for a particular pitch, you're already tied in and ready to go.