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Posted

Hey Ed,

Thats strange, was your buddies fall on the Tripple Cracks pitch? If so I think I met those guys. Or at least I met a couple of guys from Missula that had to bail all the way from that pitch. The belayer had a broken nose, the leader ripped all the fixed stuff and didn't have the right size heads so they rapped all the way down. A nasty storm came in the next day, so they were better off.

Anyway, if your into the "beta" thing, let me know. I did The Sheild last October and would love to talk about it some more!!!

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Posted

I'm sure that was them. I wasn't there so I only got the story second hand. But I think I remember Dan saying they didn't finish cause they didn't have the right size heads. I didn't know Jason Lakey, the belayer, had a broken nose. I know he was pissed he dropped his doob though.

Posted

They could have made it up the pitch with any kind of heads. But its probably good that they bailed cause the storm was really bad. It lasted for about a week.

He (the belayer, I forgot his name) told me they had an epic getting back under roof. Then they rapped straight down to Heart and left the bags hanging under the roof. Then he paid someone to jug up and bring em' down! I geuss he had to leave for work or somethin'. We roled in after the storm and spent about a week on the route, drinkin wine and doin' two or three pitches a day.

If you'd like I can send you a gear list that would help you do it clean. It won't go fully clean unless the cruxes are fixed, and you arn't afraid to take 200ft whippers!! Needled to say I got some good experience nailing on that one!

Posted

It couldn't hurt. I don't have any specific plans to do the shield, though its a distinct possibility. And I'm not going till September. But if you've got the extra time I'd be interested in what you used on it.

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